This is not exactly the place to furnish rules for select-
ing the different articles needed in the household; but it
may not be amiss to mention concisely some few points
to be remembered when marketing, particularly in pur-
chasing meat, fish, etc., although almost all books on
domestic affairs are full of such directions. The "line
46
THE HOME COOK BOOK.
Upon line, and precept upon precept principle is nowhere
more needed, or more effective, than in domestic economy.
In choosing fish, of every variety, bear in mind that if
they are perfectly rigid, and the eyes bright, there is no
fear of their being stale. Fish that live chiefly or alto-
gether on the surface of the water will keep but a very
short time. They die almost as soon as they are taken ;
and the change is so sudden that they lose their best
flavor in a very few hours. Mackerel and herring are of
this class. The fish that lie near the bottom of the water,
like the cod^ can be kept alive longer after being taken
from the water, and their flesh keeps fresh longer than
those first mentioned. Some think the flesh better if
kept a day or two. Crabs, lobsters, etc., are worthless if
they are light and watery. When they feel solid and
heavy, they are good. One will soon learn to judge of
them by comparing the weight. If oysters are in the
least degree open, discard them; they are always good
when the shell is tightly closed. Ox beef is the best.
The animal should be five or six years old. If well fed,
the flesh will be fine-grained, of a bright red color, with
plenty of yellow fat running through it, and sufficiently
elastic to rise up quickly when pressed by the fingers.
If this is not so, it will be tough and of poor flavor. Cow
or heifer beef is paler than ox beef, the fat a clear white,
firmer grained, and the bones smaller; but it is not so
rich or juicy. Veal should be small and white, the
kidneys well covered with fat, and the flesh dry. If
coarse-grained, moist and clammy, have nothing to do
with it. Mutton must be dark color and fat ; the color
determines the age, and age is the mark of excellence.
Five or six years is the age that epicures demand in
mutton. Lamb, small, pale red, and fat. If fresh killed,
MA.BKETING.
47
the veins in the neck will be bluish ; if stale, greenish.
Never buy pork except from a butcher whose honesty is
undoubted, and who knows where the animal was fattened.
When good, the skin will be thin and smooth. Reject it
if the flesh be flabby or clammy to the touch ; and if there
are kernels in the fat, it will be dangerous food. As soon
as meat is brought in from the butcher's, wipe it dry with
a clean cloth. Common fowls will be plump on the
breast and fat on the back if good ; when young, the legs
and combs are smooth. Turkeys, when fresh killed, will
have clear, full eyes and moist feet. In old birds the legs
are rough and reddish ; in the young, smooth and black.
When geese are old, the bills and feet are red ; when
young, yellow. If fresh killed, the feet will be pliable;
if too long kept, they will be stiff. Ducks and pigeons,
when in good condition and fresh, will have plump breasts
and pliable feet.
Page 20
Presented as published in 1896. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
This is not exactly the place to furnish rules for selecting the different articles needed in the household; but it may not be amiss to mention concisely some few points to be remembered when marketing, particularly in purchasing meat, fish, etc., although almost all books on domestic affairs are full of such directions. The "line
Upon line, and precept upon precept principle is nowhere more needed, or more effective, than in domestic economy.
In choosing fish, of every variety, bear in mind that if they are perfectly rigid, and the eyes bright, there is no fear of their being stale. Fish that live chiefly or altogether on the surface of the water will keep but a very short time. They die almost as soon as they are taken ; and the change is so sudden that they lose their best flavor in a very few hours. Mackerel and herring are of this class. The fish that lie near the bottom of the water, like the cod, can be kept alive longer after being taken from the water, and their flesh keeps fresh longer than those first mentioned. Some think the flesh better if kept a day or two. Crabs, lobsters, etc., are worthless if they are light and watery. When they feel solid and heavy, they are good. One will soon learn to judge of them by comparing the weight. If oysters are in the least degree open, discard them; they are always good when the shell is tightly closed. Ox beef is the best. The animal should be five or six years old. If well fed, the flesh will be fine-grained, of a bright red color, with plenty of yellow fat running through it, and sufficiently elastic to rise up quickly when pressed by the fingers. If this is not so, it will be tough and of poor flavor. Cow or heifer beef is paler than ox beef, the fat a clear white, firmer grained, and the bones smaller; but it is not so rich or juicy. Veal should be small and white, the kidneys well covered with fat, and the flesh dry. If coarse-grained, moist and clammy, have nothing to do with it. Mutton must be dark color and fat ; the color determines the age, and age is the mark of excellence. Five or six years is the age that epicures demand in mutton. Lamb, small, pale red, and fat. If fresh killed,
MA.BKETING.
the veins in the neck will be bluish ; if stale, greenish. Never buy pork except from a butcher whose honesty is undoubted, and who knows where the animal was fattened. When good, the skin will be thin and smooth. Reject it if the flesh be flabby or clammy to the touch ; and if there are kernels in the fat, it will be dangerous food. As soon as meat is brought in from the butcher's, wipe it dry with a clean cloth. Common fowls will be plump on the breast and fat on the back if good ; when young, the legs and combs are smooth. Turkeys, when fresh killed, will have clear, full eyes and moist feet. In old birds the legs are rough and reddish ; in the young, smooth and black. When geese are old, the bills and feet are red ; when young, yellow. If fresh killed, the feet will be pliable; if too long kept, they will be stiff. Ducks and pigeons, when in good condition and fresh, will have plump breasts and pliable feet.