Moderate-sized fish are usually best, especially those which are thick and plump in proportion to their size. Small fish are inclined to be tasteless and very large ones coarse in texture. The quality of fish is very much influenced by the kind of food on which they have been living. They are supposed also to be at their best just before spawning, but during spawning they are poor in quality. As a general rule fish cannot be too fresh, the oily kinds of fish and freshwater fish especially should be cooked as soon as possible after being taken from the water. There are several signs by which the freshness of fish can be judged — the fish should be firm and stifi, the gills red, the eyes bright and not sunken, and there should be no unpleasant smell. A flat fish should never be bought without look- ing at both sides, and especially the grey side, as this betrays any want of freshness more quickly than the white. A plaice, for instance, can always be judged by its spots ; when fresh they are bright red, and after it has been kept some time they take a brownish hue. In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appearance with a close grain ; if it looks fibrous and watery it is not good. Never choose fish that is bruised or has the skin broken, as it will not keep well. For special points as to the choosing of fish see under the various kinds. Frozen Fish. — Fish that is frozen by being kept on ice should be thawed by letting it lie in cold water before it is used. Do not allow it to remain in the water longer than is necessary. GENERAL RULES FOR CLEANING FISH The thorough cleansing of fish is essential to its wholesomeness. Although in towns fish is usually bought ready cleaned by the fishmonger, it is always as well to know how it ought to be done, as sometimes in country districts, and very often at the seaside, the knowledge is necessary. First empty the fish. Some fish require to be cut open before being emptied, others have the insides drawn out by the gills. Flat fish, such as plaice, flounders, soles, and the like are emptied by making a small cut on the dark side of the fish across the round cavity, which lies close below the gills. The inside can then be easily withdrawn and the gills removed. Other fish, which swim with the back upwards, such as haddock, whiting, codling, &c., are cleaned by making a slit down the length of the abdomen, from the head about half- way to the tail. Again, there are some small and delicate fish which are not opened at all, but merely drawn through the gills (see Smelts and Red Mullet). When drawing the inside from the fish, be careful not to disfigure it, handle it as lightly as possible. If there is a roe in the fish, this may be replaced in the case of small fish and cooked with them, if they are being cooked whole, but the roe of large fish requires to be cooked separately, otherwise it would not be sufficiently done. The liver may also be replaced, if it is liked. The sounds, which consist of a white skinny substance lying close to the back bone, are sometimes left, but as a rule it is better to remove them. The sounds of a cod are generally served as a separate dish (see Recipe 192).

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Moderate-sized fish are usually best, especially those which are thick and plump in proportion to their size. Small fish are inclined to be tasteless and very large ones coarse in texture. The quality of fish is very much influenced by the kind of food on which they have been living. They are supposed also to be at their best just before spawning, but during spawning they are poor in quality. As a general rule fish cannot be too fresh, the oily kinds of fish and freshwater fish especially should be cooked as soon as possible after being taken from the water. There are several signs by which the freshness of fish can be judged — the fish should be firm and stifi, the gills red, the eyes bright and not sunken, and there should be no unpleasant smell. A flat fish should never be bought without looking at both sides, and especially the grey side, as this betrays any want of freshness more quickly than the white. A plaice, for instance, can always be judged by its spots ; when fresh they are bright red, and after it has been kept some time they take a brownish hue. In choosing cut fish, such as cod, halibut, salmon, &c., the flesh should have a firm appearance with a close grain ; if it looks fibrous and watery it is not good. Never choose fish that is bruised or has the skin broken, as it will not keep well. For special points as to the choosing of fish see under the various kinds. Frozen Fish. — Fish that is frozen by being kept on ice should be thawed by letting it lie in cold water before it is used. Do not allow it to remain in the water longer than is necessary. GENERAL RULES FOR CLEANING FISH The thorough cleansing of fish is essential to its wholesomeness. Although in towns fish is usually bought ready cleaned by the fishmonger, it is always as well to know how it ought to be done, as sometimes in country districts, and very often at the seaside, the knowledge is necessary. First empty the fish. Some fish require to be cut open before being emptied, others have the insides drawn out by the gills. Flat fish, such as plaice, flounders, soles, and the like are emptied by making a small cut on the dark side of the fish across the round cavity, which lies close below the gills. The inside can then be easily withdrawn and the gills removed. Other fish, which swim with the back upwards, such as haddock, whiting, codling, &c., are cleaned by making a slit down the length of the abdomen, from the head about halfway to the tail. Again, there are some small and delicate fish which are not opened at all, but merely drawn through the gills (see Smelts and Red Mullet). When drawing the inside from the fish, be careful not to disfigure it, handle it as lightly as possible. If there is a roe in the fish, this may be replaced in the case of small fish and cooked with them, if they are being cooked whole, but the roe of large fish requires to be cooked separately, otherwise it would not be sufficiently done. The liver may also be replaced, if it is liked. The sounds, which consist of a white skinny substance lying close to the back bone, are sometimes left, but as a rule it is better to remove them. The sounds of a cod are generally served as a separate dish (see Recipe 192).

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