CHRISTMAS PARE.— The times change, and we
change with the times, but there are certain land-marks
still left which, in a modified form, indicate and preserve
the memory of times that were, although the practices and
customs of that time are toned down to suit modern
tastes and acquirements. The “ brave days of old,” if
rude and unrefined, were at least distinguished by a
hearty and profuse hospitality. During the Christmas
holidays the barons and knights kept open house, and
for a fortnight and upwards nothing was heard of but
revelry and feasting. The grand feast of the occasion,
however, given by the feudal chief to Lis friends and
retainers, took place, with great pomp and circumstance,
on Christmas Day.
Among the many dishes served upon this occasion would
be, first and foremost, the boar’s head. See Fig. 467. Wild
boars are said to have been denizens of the huge forests
of Great Britain up to about the reign of Henry II..
after which time they appear to have been annihilated.
Charles I. made some sort of an attempt to re-stock the
New F orest with them, but signally failed. William
Christmas Fare — continued.
the Conqueror passed a very stern decree, that any
person killing a wild boar without the royal consent
was liable to the penalty of having his eyes put out.
But in this country wild boars are of the past, and the
tame boar is deemed an acceptable substitute, contribut-
ing its head with much pomp, ceremony, and fictitious
Fig. 467. Boar’s Head with Rosemary.
admiration to the flattering guests. His paler face is
duly blackened with soot and fat, to give him the
ferocious aspect of an uncivilised native ; but the slaughter
of the innocent tame sucking-pig may be considered to
have reduced the wild boar and its dangerous hunting
to an absurdly low ebb.
The pageant of serving the boar’s head is amusingly
described in some of our old books, as heralded by a
jubilant flourish of trumpets and accompanied by strains
of merry minstrelsy; it was carried on a dish of gold
or silver — no meaner metal would suffice — into the
banqueting-hall, borne in the sacred hands of the carver,
who, as he advanced with stately step at the head of an
impressed procession of nobles, knights, and ladies, sang
“ The Boar’s Head Chant,” accompanied in a solemn
chorus by his followers. The words of the first verse
are as follow :
The boar's head in hand bring I,
With garlands gay and rosemary ;
I pray you all sing merrily,
Que estis in convivio.
Be glad both more and less,
For this hath ordained our steward
So cheer you all this Christmas —
The boar’s head and mustard✪ Boar's Head.
Chorus — Caput apri defero,
Reddens laudes Domino.
As the leader of the procession, bearing the “ brawner’s
head,” approached the table, he deposited the noble dish in
its place with great gravity, whilst the “nobles, knights,
and faire ladyes,” arranged themselves at the board.
Mustard sauce was an indispensable of the Christmas
table, for we find in an ancient book of instruction for
the service of the royal table at this season, “ first set
forth mustard with brawn ; take your knife in your
hand, and cut brawn in the dish as it lieth, and lay on
your sovereign’s trencher, and — see there he mustard.”
Page 346 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1890. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
CHRISTMAS PARE.— The times change, and we change with the times, but there are certain land-marks still left which, in a modified form, indicate and preserve the memory of times that were, although the practices and customs of that time are toned down to suit modern tastes and acquirements. The “ brave days of old,” if rude and unrefined, were at least distinguished by a hearty and profuse hospitality. During the Christmas holidays the barons and knights kept open house, and for a fortnight and upwards nothing was heard of but revelry and feasting. The grand feast of the occasion, however, given by the feudal chief to his friends and retainers, took place, with great pomp and circumstance, on Christmas Day.
Among the many dishes served upon this occasion would be, first and foremost, the boar’s head. See Fig. 467. Wild boars are said to have been denizens of the huge forests of Great Britain up to about the reign of Henry II., after which time they appear to have been annihilated. Charles I. made some sort of an attempt to re-stock the New Forest with them, but signally failed. William
Christmas Fare — continued. the Conqueror passed a very stern decree, that any person killing a wild boar without the royal consent was liable to the penalty of having his eyes put out. But in this country wild boars are of the past, and the tame boar is deemed an acceptable substitute, contributing its head with much pomp, ceremony, and fictitious
Fig. 467. Boar’s Head with Rosemary.
admiration to the flattering guests. His paler face is duly blackened with soot and fat, to give him the ferocious aspect of an uncivilised native ; but the slaughter of the innocent tame sucking-pig may be considered to have reduced the wild boar and its dangerous hunting to an absurdly low ebb.
The pageant of serving the boar’s head is amusingly described in some of our old books, as heralded by a jubilant flourish of trumpets and accompanied by strains of merry minstrelsy; it was carried on a dish of gold or silver — no meaner metal would suffice — into the banqueting-hall, borne in the sacred hands of the carver, who, as he advanced with stately step at the head of an impressed procession of nobles, knights, and ladies, sang “ The Boar’s Head Chant,” accompanied in a solemn chorus by his followers. The words of the first verse are as follow :
The boar's head in hand bring I,
With garlands gay and rosemary ;
I pray you all sing merrily,
Que estis in convivio.
Be glad both more and less,
For this hath ordained our steward So cheer you all this Christmas —
The boar’s head and mustard.
Chorus — Caput apri defero,
Reddens laudes Domino.
As the leader of the procession, bearing the “ brawner’s head,” approached the table, he deposited the noble dish in its place with great gravity, whilst the “nobles, knights, and faire ladyes,” arranged themselves at the board.
Mustard sauce was an indispensable of the Christmas table, for we find in an ancient book of instruction for the service of the royal table at this season, “ first set forth mustard with brawn ; take your knife in your hand, and cut brawn in the dish as it lieth, and lay on your sovereign’s trencher, and — see there he mustard.”
Records on this page
Boar's Head