The encyclopædia of practical cookery

Calf’s Brains. —As a matter of fact, very little difference exists in brain-tissue, from whatever animal it may be extracted ; nevertheless there is a decided leaning in culinary quarters towards the brains of the Calf, as more marrow-like and mellow. Ancient writers were of opinion that an individual’s disposition was affected by the nature of his food, hence it was not considered a good policy to eat Calf’s, sheep’s, or pig’s brains; but even that prejudice appears to have died a natural death in the general advancement of science and understanding, and the greatest philosophers no longer disdain such dishes as those described hereunder. Calf’s Brains are prepared for cooking as follows : After they have been removed from the skull they should be soaked and well washed, to cleanse away any Calf — continued. blood that might be diffused through them, and then dipped into scalding water with a little vinegar and salt in it, and just boiled up for a few minutes so as to slightly harden them. Then the membranes can be stripped off easily, and the brains drained and dried, when they are ready to be treated in various ways, and are capable of almost any amount of artistic manipulation. Boiled Calf’s Brains with Black or Brown Butter. — Take three Calf’s Brains that have been cleaned, blanched, and prepared, put them in a stowpan, and cover over with water. Add 2 pinches of salt, 1 breakfast-cupful of vinegar, one medium-sized sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, and twelve whole peppers. Boil for five minutes, drain well, and cut each brain into halves. Arrange on a dish, and serve with 1 gill of very hot black or brown butter. Boiled Calf’s Brains with Fried Parsley and Black or Brown-Butter Sauce. — Take three Calf’s Brains, put them in a saucepan over slices of fat bacon, a bouquet garni, a little butter, and sufficient broth to cover. Cook over a slow fire for thirty minutes, by which time they should be sufficiently done ; put them on a hot dish with a little fried parsley in the centre, and black or brown-butter sauce poured round. Boiled Calf’s Brains a la Poulette. — Put a large piece of butter in a saucepan, melt it, and gradually add 1 teacupful of flour; mix well together, and add 1 gill of clear broth, taking care to stir well all the time; then add gill of white wine or Madeira and water in equal parts. Next add a few small onions and mushrooms, and boil until they are done, adding a little grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste; when these are soft put in the brains, and boil again for twelve or fifteen minutes. Take out the brains and put them on a dish. Add the yolk of an egg to the sauce, with the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the brains. This dish must be served very hot. Boiled Calf’s Brains with Ravigote Sauce. — In Igall. of hot water put a small handful of salt, 1 wineglassful of vinegar, a bunch of parsley, a finely-chopped onion, a piece of celery, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a few peppercorns and cloves ; boil for five minutes, then put in the brains and boil again for twelve or fifteen minutes. Drain the brains, butter with a paste-brush, and serve them with hot ravigote sauce. The brains can also be dished with a garnish of sorrel, the roots being placed towards the centre of the dish, or with brown butter.