THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY.
759
Heat-Conductors — continued.
adaptation of the same principle to baking small birds,
these being transfixed through the neck.
Another very clever use to which this conducting
power of metal can be applied is shown at Pig. 949,
where the cook’s fear that a cake may not be done in
the centre is obviated by a metallic cone which enters
and conveys heat into the heart of the cake without
disfiguring the outward appearance. See Heat.
HEATH-COCK. — See Blackcock.
HECTOGRAM, HECTOLITRE. — See Weights
and Measures.
HEDGEHOGS (. Fr . Herissons; Ger. Igel; Ital. Spinosi).
— Amongst what may be termed eccentricities of gas-
tronomy Hedgehogs ( Erinaceus europaeus ) may be classed,
although it is urged that the flesh when stewed is both
savoury and tender. Gipsies are said to regard them
as rare delicacies, and cook them by rolling them up in
soft clay, and then leaving them in the ashes of the
camp fire until wanted. By breaking open the clay shell
when baked sufficiently, the skin peels off with it, and
leaves the steaming flesh.
HEELS. — See Cow-heels.
HEIDELBERG BISHOP.— -See Bishops.
HELENA PUDDING.— -See Puddings.
HELOISE CAKE. --See Cakes.
HERBS.— It is a most remarkable fact that whereas
the great secret of tasty cookery is dependent upon the
flavouring contributed by aromatics, there is no subject
upon which cooks are more absolutely divided. Attempts
have been made by famous chefs to establish some rules
of classification and combination for different purposes,
but as each individual acted without consulting his
compeers, the confusion has become worse confounded.
At one time we were favoured with a sort of dual
classification, Herbs generally being divided into pot-
Herbs and sweet or aromatic Herbs, and these are
described in a celebrated book on gardening as :
Pot-Herbs. — Parsley, Purslane, Tarragon, Fennel,
Borage, Dill, Chervil, Horseradish, Indian Cress, and
Marigold.
Sweet Herbs. — Thyme, Sage, Savory, Clary, Mint,
Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Lavender, and Costmary.
Besides these, there are a large variety of Pot-Herbs
amongst wild plants, and these are enumerated as
Black Bryony, Charlock, Ox-tongue, Spotted Hawkweed,
Burdock, Willow-Herb, Fat-hen, Sea-orach, Sea-beet,
Sow-thistle, Stinging-nettle, Chickweed, Sauce-alone or
Jack-by-the-hedge, and Wild-rocket. Some of these
have occasionally been boiled and used as vegetables,
or in salad.
Modern usage has added all manner of vegetables to
the list of Herbs, and these French cooks style Potageres,
because they are used in making soups. Then again
there is the Bouquet Garni, and the British cook’s
Fagot, and lastly, the Continental Herbes Fines, or
Fine Herbs, which may be considered as a genuine
attempt made by a few, and followed by many, to
establish a sort of fixed Herbal code for certain uses.
These are described under their different headings, and
contain other flavourings besides those usually described
as Herbs.
The number of aromatic Herbs in general use has
greatly diminished, indicating another attempt of artistic
cooks to simplify the preparation of savoury dishes and
sauces. Most of these are grown in our kitchen-gardens,
and may be gathered fresh in season, or dried and
powdered for winter use as follows :
The Herbs should be picked on a dry day, and just as
they are about to flower ; the roots must then be cut off,
and the Herbs freed from dust and dirt, washing them if
Page 94
Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Heat-Conductors — continued. adaptation of the same principle to baking small birds, these being transfixed through the neck.
Another very clever use to which this conducting power of metal can be applied is shown at Fig. 949, where the cook’s fear that a cake may not be done in the centre is obviated by a metallic cone which enters and conveys heat into the heart of the cake without disfiguring the outward appearance. See Heat.
HEATH-COCK. — See Blackcock.
HECTOGRAM, HECTOLITRE. — See Weights and Measures.
HEDGEHOGS (Fr. Herissons; Ger. Igel; Ital. Spinosi). Amongst what may be termed eccentricities of gastronomy Hedgehogs ( Erinaceus europaeus) may be classed, although it is urged that the flesh when stewed is both savoury and tender. Gipsies are said to regard them as rare delicacies, and cook them by rolling them up in soft clay, and then leaving them in the ashes of the camp fire until wanted. By breaking open the clay shell when baked sufficiently, the skin peels off with it, and leaves the steaming flesh.
HEELS. — See Cow-heels.
HEIDELBERG BISHOP.— See Bishops.
HELENA PUDDING.— See Puddings.
HELOISE CAKE.— See Cakes.
HERBS.— It is a most remarkable fact that whereas the great secret of tasty cookery is dependent upon the flavouring contributed by aromatics, there is no subject upon which cooks are more absolutely divided. Attempts have been made by famous chefs to establish some rules of classification and combination for different purposes, but as each individual acted without consulting his compeers, the confusion has become worse confounded. At one time we were favoured with a sort of dual classification, Herbs generally being divided into pot- Herbs and sweet or aromatic Herbs, and these are described in a celebrated book on gardening as :
Pot-Herbs. — Parsley, Purslane, Tarragon, Fennel, Borage, Dill, Chervil, Horseradish, Indian Cress, and Marigold.
Sweet Herbs. — Thyme, Sage, Savory, Clary, Mint, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Lavender, and Costmary.
Besides these, there are a large variety of Pot-Herbs amongst wild plants, and these are enumerated as Black Bryony, Charlock, Ox-tongue, Spotted Hawkweed, Burdock, Willow-Herb, Fat-hen, Sea-orach, Sea-beet, Sow-thistle, Stinging-nettle, Chickweed, Sauce-alone or Jack-by-the-hedge, and Wild-rocket. Some of these have occasionally been boiled and used as vegetables, or in salad.
Modern usage has added all manner of vegetables to the list of Herbs, and these French cooks style Potageres, because they are used in making soups. Then again there is the Bouquet Garni, and the British cook’s Fagot, and lastly, the Continental Herbes Fines, or Fine Herbs, which may be considered as a genuine attempt made by a few, and followed by many, to establish a sort of fixed Herbal code for certain uses. These are described under their different headings, and contain other flavourings besides those usually described as Herbs.
The number of aromatic Herbs in general use has greatly diminished, indicating another attempt of artistic cooks to simplify the preparation of savoury dishes and sauces. Most of these are grown in our kitchen-gardens, and may be gathered fresh in season, or dried and powdered for winter use as follows :
The Herbs should be picked on a dry day, and just as
they are about to flower ; the roots must then be cut off,
and the Herbs freed from dust and dirt, washing them if