[Modern cookery, in all its branches

Vermicelli, or rasped cocoa-nut, lightly, and very gently browned in a small quantity of butter, will both thicken and enrich them, if about an ounce of either to the pint of gravy be stewed gently in it, from half an hour to an hour, and then strained out. All the ingredients indicated at page 4, for giving consistency to soups, will answer equally for gravies, which should not, however, be too much thickened, particularly with the unwholesome mixture of flour and butter, so commonly used for the purpose. Arrow-root or rice-flour, or common flour gradually browned in a slow oven, are much better suited to a delicate stomach. No particle of fat should ever be perceptible upon them when they are sent to table ; and when it cannot be removed by skimming, they should be allowed to become sufficiently cold for it to congeal, and be taken off at once without trouble. It may be cleared from such as have not been thickened by passing them through a closely woven cloth, which has previously been laid into, and well wrung from, some cold water. JEWISH SMOKED BEEF. {Extremely useful for giving flavour to soup and gravy*) This beef, of which we have more fully spoken in Chapter XXXIV., imparts a remarkably fine flavour to soup or gravy ; but great care must be taken in using it to cut quite away all the external parts which have been discoloured in the drying : the whole of the surface, indeed, should be rather thickly pared off, or it will give a smoky taste to the gravy. An ounce or two of the lean thus cleared from the outsides and from all skin and fat, and divided first into thick [chap. iv. slices, and then into small squares, will flavour a pint or more of stock of any kind : it may be added to the meat in making Liebeg gravy when it is first put into the stewpan. TO HEIGHTEN THE COLOUR AND THE FLAVOUR OF GRAVIES. This is best done by the directions given for making Espagnole. An ounce or two of the lean of unboiled ham, cut into dice and coloured slowly in a small stewpan, or smoothly-tinned iron saucepan, with less than an ounce of butter, a blade of mace, two or three cloves, a bay-leaf, a few small sprigs of savoury herbs, and an eschalot or two, or about a teaspoonful of minced onion, and a little young parsley root, when it can be had, will convert common shin of beef stock, or even strong broth, into an excellent gravy, if it be gradually added to them after they have stewed slowly for quite half an hour, and then boiled with them for twenty minutes or more. The liquid should not be mixed with the other ingredients until the side of the stewpan is coloured of a reddish brown ; and should any thickening be required, a teaspoonful of flour should be stirred in well, and simmered for three or four minutes before the stock is added ; the pan should be strongly shaken round afterwards, to detach the browning from it, and this must be done often while the ham is stewing.