[Modern cookery, in all its branches

Add to half a pint of rich, pale veal gravy, well thickened with the white roux of page 108, a good seasoning of pepper, salt, minced parsley, and lemon-juice ; or make the thickening with a small tablespoonful of flour, and a couple of ounces of butter ; keep these stirred constantly over a very gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes, then pour the gravy to them boiling, in small portions, mixing the whole well as it is added, and letting it boil up between each, for unless this be done the butter will be likely to float upon the surface. Simmer the sauce for a few minutes, and skim it well, then add salt should it be needed, a tolerable seasoning of pepper or of cayenne in fine powder, from two to three teaspoonsful of minced parsley, and the strained juice of a small lemon. For some dishes, this sauce is thickened with the yolks of eggs, about four to the pint. The French work into their sauces generally a small bit of fresh butter just before they are taken from the fire, to give them mellowness : this is done usually for the Mattre d’ Hotel Sauce. The Maltre d’Hotel is, properly, the House Steward. MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE MAIGRE,* OR WITHOUT GRAVY. Substitute half a pint of good melted butter for the gravy, and add to it the same seasonings as above. A double quantity of these sauces will be needed when they are required to cover a large fish; in that case they should be thick enough to adhere to it well. Melted butter, £ pint; seasoning of salt and pepper, or cayenne; minced parsley, 2 to 3 teaspoonsful ; juice, 1 small lemon. For Cold Maitre d’Hotel Sauce, see Chapter YI, THE LADY’S SAUCE. (For Fish.) Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a small slice of butter, and some cayenne ; rub it through a hair-sieve, gather it together, and mix it very smoothly with from half to threequarters of a pint of sauce tournee or of cream fish-sauce, previously well seasoned with cayenne and salt, and moderately with pounded mace ; bring it to the point of boiling only ; stir in quickly,- but gradually, a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve it very hot. When neither cream nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich melted butter mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies, and well seasoned. The fine colour of the coral will be destroyed by boiling. This sauce, which the French call Sauce a VAurore , may be served with brill, boiled soles, gray mullet, and some few other kinds of fish : it is quickly made when the lobster butter of Chapter YI. is in the house. Coral of lobster, pounded ; cream sauce, or sauce tournee (thickened pale veal gravy), l to f pint; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; salt, cayenne, and mace, as needed. Or : rich melted butter, instead of other sauce ; essence of anchovies, 2 dessertspoonsful ; other season^ ing, as above. Obs. — The proportion of spices h$re must, of course, depend on the flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have received. GENEVESE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GENEVOISE.