[Modern cookery, in all its branches

He directs the preparation to be mixed and worked — to use a technical expression — over ice , which cannot always be commanded, except in opulent establishments, and in large towns. It is * Monsieur Carême, to whose somewhat elaborate but admirable works, published thirty years or more since, all modern cooks appear to be specially indebted. chap. VI.] not, however, essential to the success of this sauce, which will prove extremely good if made and kept in a cool larder ; or, if the bowl in which it is mingled be placed in a pan of cold water, into which plenty of saltpetre and sal-ammoniac, roughly powdered, are thrown at the moment it is set into it. In this country a smaller proportion of oil, and a larger one of acid, are usually preferred to the common French salad-dressings, in which there is generally a very small portion of vinegar. To some tastes a spoonful or two of cream would improve the present Mayonnaise, which may be varied also with chili, tarragon, or other flavoured vinegar. It should be served heaped high in the centre of the salad, for which, if large, double the quantity directed here should be prepared. REMOULADE. This differs little from an ordinary English salad-dressing. Pound very smoothly indeed the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs with a teaspoonful of mustard, half as much salt, and some cayenne, or white pepper. Mix gradually with them, working the whole well together, two or three tablespoonsful of oil and two of vinegar. Should the sauce be curdled, pour it by degrees to the yolk of a raw egg, stirring it well round as directed for the Mayonnaise. A spoonful of tarragon, cucumber, or eschalot-vinegar, may be added with very good effect ; and to give it increased relish, a teaspoonful of cavice, or a little of Harvey’s sauce, and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar may be thrown into it. This last is an excellent addition to all cold sauces, or salad-dressings. Hard yolks of 2 or of 3 eggs ; mustard, 1 teaspoonful (more when liked) ; salt, ^ teaspoonful : pepper or cayenne ; oil, 3 tablespoonsful ; vinegar, 2. If curdled', yolk of 1 raw egg. Good additions : tarragon or eschalot, or cucumber-vinegar, 1 tablespoonful ; chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful ; cavice or Harvey’s sauce at pleasure. Ohs. — A dessertspoonful of eschalots, or a morsel of garlic, very finely minced, are sometimes pounded with the yolks of eggs for this sauce. OXFORD DRAWN SAUCE. Mingle thoroughly a tablespoonful of brown sugar with a teaspoonful of made mustard, a third as much of salt, some pepper, from three to four tablespoonsful of very fine salad-oil, and two of strong vinegar ; or apportion the same ingredients otherwise to the taste. FORCED EGGS FOR GARNISHING SALAD, Found and press through the back of a hair-sieve the flesh of three very fine, or of four moderate-sized anchovies, freed from the bones and skin. Boil six fresh eggs for twelve minutes, and when they are [chap. vi.