[Modern cookery, in all its branches

The herbs and vegetables for a salad cannot be too freshly gathered ; they should be carefully cleared from insects and washed with scrupulous nicety ; they are better when not prepared until near the time of sending them to table, and should not be sauced until the instant before they are served. Tender lettuces, of which the stems should be cut off, and the outer leaves be stripped away, mustard and cress, young radishes, and occasionally chives or small green onions (when the taste of a party is in favour of these last) are the usual ingredients of summer salads. (In early spring, as we have stated in another chapter, the young white leaves of the dandelion will supply a very wholesome and excellent salad, of which the slight bitterness is to many persons as agreeable as that of the endive.) Half-grown cucumbers sliced thin, and mixed with them, are a favourite addition with many persons. In England it is customary to cut the lettuces extremely fine ; the French, who object to the flavour of the knife, which they fancy this mode imparts, break them small instead. Young celery alone, sliced and dressed with a rich salad mixture, is excellent : it is still in some families served thus always with roast pheasants. Beet-root, baked or boiled, blanched endive, small salad-herbs which are easily raised at any time of the year, celery, and hardy lettuces, with any ready-dressed vegetable, will supply salads through the winter. Cucumber vinegar is an agreeable addition to these FRENCH SALAD. In winter this is made principally of beautifully-blanched endive, washed delicately clean and broken into small branches with the fingers, then taken from the water and shaken dry in a basket of peculiar form, appropriated to the purpose,* or in a fine cloth ; then arranged in the salad bowl, and strewed with herbs (tarragon generally, when in season) minced small : the dressing is not added until just before the salad is eaten. In summer, young lettuces are substituted for the endive, and intermixed with a variety of herbs, some of which are not generally cultivated in England. FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. Stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a large spoonful of oil, and when the salt is dissolved, mix with them four * Salad-baskets are also to be found in many good English kitchens, but they ere not in such general use here as on the continent. [CHAP. VI.] additional spoonsful of oil, and pour the whole over the salad ; let it be well turned, and then add a couple of spoonsful of tarragon vinegar ; mix the whole thoroughly, and serve it without delay. The salad should not be dressed in this way until the instant before it is wanted for table : the proportions of salt and pepper can be. increased at pleasure, and common or cucumber vinegar may be substituted for the tarragon, which, however, is more frequently used in France than any other. Salt, 1 spoonful : pepper, ½ as much ; oil, 5 saladspoonsful ; tarragon, or other vinegar, 2 spoonsful. DES CERNEAUX, OR WALNUT SALAD.