[Modern cookery, in all its branches

Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-fed pig ; slice it small and thin ; put it into a new or well-scalded jar, set it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a clear fire. As it dissolves, strain it into small stone jars or deep earthen pans, and when perfectly cold, tie over it the skin that was cleared from the lard, or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped very dry. Lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour, and keeps perfectly well if stored in a cool place ; it maybe used with advantage in making common pastry, as well as for frying fish, and for various other purposes. It is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart from that which is first poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in quality. TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTHS. For the particular uses to which the leaf-fat, or fleed, can be advantageously applied, see fleed-crust, Chapter XVIII. It may be kept well during the summer months by rubbing fine salt rather plentifully upon it when it is first taken from the pig, and letting it lie for a couple of days; it should then be well drained, and covered with a strong brine; this in warmer weather should be changed occasionally. When wanted for use, lay it into cold water for two or three hours, then wipe it dry, and it will have quite the effect of the fresh fleed when made into paste. Inner fat of pig, 6 lbs. ; fine salt, % to f lb. : 2 days Brine : to each quart of water, 6 oz. salt. TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG. After the pig has been scalded and prepared for the spit, wipe it as dry as possible, and put into the body about half a pint of fine bread-crumbs, mixed with three heaped teaspoonsful of sage, minced very small, three ounces of good butter, a large saltspoonful of salt, and two-thirds as much of pepper or some cayenne. Sew it up with soft, but strong cotton ; truss it as a hare, with the fore legs skewered back, and the hind ones forward ; lay it to a strong clear fire, but keep it at a moderate distance, as it would quickly blister or scorch if placed too near. So soon as it has become warm, rub it with a bit of butter tied in a fold of muslin or of thin cloth, and repeat this process constantly while it is roasting. When the gravy begins to drop from it, put basins or small deep tureens under, to catch it in.* As soon as the pig is of a fine light amber brown and the steam draws strongly towards the fire, wipe it quite dry with a clean cloth, and rub a bit of cold butter over it. When it is half done, a pig iron, or in lieu of this, a large flat iron should be hung in the centre of the grate, or the middle of the pig will be done long before the ends. When it is ready for table lay it into a very hot dish, and before the spit is withdrawn, take off and open the head and split the body in two ; chop together quickly the stuffing and the brains, put them into half a pint of good veal gravy ready thickened, add a glass of Madeira or of sherry, and the gravy which has dropped from the pig ; pour a small portion of this under the roast and serve the remainder as hot as possible in a tureen : a little pounded mace and cayenne with a squeeze of lemon-juice, may be added, should the flavour require heightening. Fine bread sauce, and plain gravy should likewise be served with it.