[Modern cookery, in all its branches

* Brought there by the late Marquis of Hertford, to his Sudbourne estate- [chap. xv. TO ROAST GROUSE. Handle the birds very lightly in plucking off the feathers ; draw them, and wipe the insides with clean damp cloths ; or first wash, and then dry them well ; though this latter mode would not be approved generally by epicures. Truss the grouse in the same manner as the black game above, and roast them about half an hour at a clear and brisk fire, keeping them basted almost without intermission. Serve them on a buttered toast which has been laid under them in the pan for ten minutes, or with gravy and bread sauce only. 4 hour to 35 minutes. Obs. — There are few occasions, we think, in which the contents of the dripping-pan can be introduced at table with advantage ; but in dressing moor game, we would strongly recommend the toast to be laid in it under the birds, as it will afford a superior relish even to the birds themselves. A SALMI OF MOOR FOWL, PHEASANTS, OR PARTRIDGES. (entree.) This is an excellent mode of serving the remains of roasted game, but when a superlative salmi is desired, the birds must be scarcely more then half roasted for it. In either case carve them very neatly, and strip every particle of skin and fat from the legs, wings, and breasts ; bruise the bodies well, and put them with the skin and other trimmings into a very clean stewpan. If for a simple and inexpensive dinner, merely add to them two or three sliced eschalots, a bay leaf, a small blade of mace, and a few peppercorns; then pour in a pint or rather more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil it briskly until reduced nearly half ; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavour, skim off the fat, add a little cayenne and lemon-juice, heat the game very gradually in it, but do not on any account allow it to boil ; place sippets of fried bread round a dish, arrange the birds in good form in the centre, give the sauce a boil, and pour it on them. This is but a homely sort of salmi, though of excellent flavour if well made ; it may require perhaps the addition of a little thickening, and two or three glasses of dry white wine poured to the bodies of the birds with the broth, would bring it nearer to the French salmi in flavour. As the spongy substance in the inside of moor fowl and black game is apt to be extremely bitter when they have been long kept, care should be taken to remove such parts as would endanger the preparation. FRENCH SALMI, OR HASH OF GAME. (ENTREE.) Prepare underdressed or half-roasted game by the directions we have already given, and after having stripped the skin from the Chap. xv.