The Naples maccaroni, of which the pipes are large, and somewhat thin, should be selected for the table in preference to the Genoa, which is less in size, but more substantial, and better suited to the formation of the various fanciful timbales* for which it is usually chosen. We have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks. Of the ribbon maccaroni (or lazanges ) we have given particulars in the pages which follow. The macaroncini , though not much larger than a straw, requires much boiling for its size, to render it soft. The celery-maccaroni is made very large and of an ornamental form, but in short lengths. It is used by “ professed” cooks as a sort of crust or case for quenelle- forcemeat, or other expensive preparations of the * For an explanation of the term timbale , the reader is referred to the glossary at the comraenc( ment of this volume. CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, ETC. 391 same nature. The ring or cut maccaroni is another form given to the Italian paste : it may be had at almost any good foreign ware- house. All these pastes should he of a yellowish tint (by no means white as one sees them when they are of inferior quality) ; they should also be quite fresh, as they contract a most unpleasant flavour from being too long stored. The Naples vermicelli, which is much larger than any other, may be dressed like maccaroni : by many persons it is also preferred to the smaller varieties for serving in soup. TO BOIL MACCARONI. We have always found the continental mode of dressing maccaroni the best. English cooks sometimes soak it in milk and water for an hour or more, before it is boiled, that the pipes may be swollen to the utmost, but this is apt to render it pulpy, though its appearance may be improved by it. Drop it lightly, and by degrees, into a large pan of fast-boiling water, into which a little salt, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut, have previously been thrown, and of which the boiling should not be stopped by the addition of the maccaroni. In about three-quarters of an hour the Naples maccaroni will be suffi- ciently tender : every kind should always be perfectly cooked, for otherwise it will prove very indigestible, cut the pipes of that commonly served should remain entire. Pour it mto a large cul- lender, and drain the water well from it. It should be very softly boiled after the first minute or two. Time of boiling : — Naples maccaroni, about f hour; Genoa, nearly or quite 1 hour ; macaroncini , 20 to 25 minutes ; cut maccaroni, 10 minutes ; Naples vermicelli (in water), about 20 minutes ; longer in soup, or milk. RIBBON MACCARONI.*

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The Naples maccaroni, of which the pipes are large, and somewhat thin, should be selected for the table in preference to the Genoa, which is less in size, but more substantial, and better suited to the formation of the various fanciful timbales* for which it is usually chosen. We have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks. Of the ribbon maccaroni (or lazanges ) we have given particulars in the pages which follow. The macaroncini , though not much larger than a straw, requires much boiling for its size, to render it soft. The celery-maccaroni is made very large and of an ornamental form, but in short lengths. It is used by “ professed” cooks as a sort of crust or case for quenelle- forcemeat, or other expensive preparations of the * For an explanation of the term timbale , the reader is referred to the glossary at the commencement of this volume. same nature. The ring or cut maccaroni is another form given to the Italian paste : it may be had at almost any good foreign warehouse. All these pastes should he of a yellowish tint (by no means white as one sees them when they are of inferior quality) ; they should also be quite fresh, as they contract a most unpleasant flavour from being too long stored. The Naples vermicelli, which is much larger than any other, may be dressed like maccaroni : by many persons it is also preferred to the smaller varieties for serving in soup. TO BOIL MACCARONI. We have always found the continental mode of dressing maccaroni the best. English cooks sometimes soak it in milk and water for an hour or more, before it is boiled, that the pipes may be swollen to the utmost, but this is apt to render it pulpy, though its appearance may be improved by it. Drop it lightly, and by degrees, into a large pan of fast-boiling water, into which a little salt, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut, have previously been thrown, and of which the boiling should not be stopped by the addition of the maccaroni. In about three-quarters of an hour the Naples maccaroni will be sufficiently tender : every kind should always be perfectly cooked, for otherwise it will prove very indigestible, cut the pipes of that commonly served should remain entire. Pour it mto a large cullender, and drain the water well from it. It should be very softly boiled after the first minute or two. Time of boiling : — Naples maccaroni, about f hour; Genoa, nearly or quite 1 hour ; macaroncini , 20 to 25 minutes ; cut maccaroni, 10 minutes ; Naples vermicelli (in water), about 20 minutes ; longer in soup, or milk. RIBBON MACCARONI.*

[Modern cookery, in all its branches