[Modern cookery, in all its branches

Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more than is needful ; fill it either with the forcemeat dSTo. 1, or FTo. 2 of Chapter VIII., and its own roe ; then sew it up, or fasten it securely with very fine skewers, wrap it in a thickly buttered paper, and broil it gently for an hour over a charcoal fire. Serve it with caper sauce, or with chili vinegar and melted butter. We are indebted for this receipt to a friend who has been long resident in Touraine, at whose table the fish is constantly served thus dressed, and is considered excellent. It is likewise often gently stewed in the light white wine of the country, and served covered with a rich bichamel . Many fish more common with us than the shad might be advantageously prepared in the same manner. The charcoal fire is not indispensable : any one that is entirely free from smoke will answer. We would suggest as an improvement, that oyster-forcemeat should be substituted for that which we have indicated, until the oyster season ends. Broiled gently, 1 hour, more or less, according to the size. [chap. ii. STEWED TROUT. ( Good common Receipt.') [In season from May to August.] Melt three ounces of butter in a broad stewpan, or well tinned iron saucepan, stir to it a tablespoonful of flour, some mace, cayenne, and nutmeg ; lay in the fish after it has been emptied, washed very clean, and wiped perfectly dry ; shake it in the pan, that it may not stick, and when lightly browned on botli sides, pour in three quarters of a pint of good veal stock, add a small faggot of parsley, one bay leaf, a roll of lemon-peel, and a little salt : stew the fish very gently from half to three quarters of an hour, or more, should it be unusually fine. Dish the trout, skim the fat from the gravy, and pass it through a hot strainer over the fish, which should be served immediately. A little acid can be added to the sauce at pleasure, and a glass of wine when it is considered an improvement. This receipt is for one large or for two middlingsized fish. We can recommend it as a good one from our own experience. Butter, 3 oz. ; flour, 1 tablespoonful ; seasoning of mace, cayenne, and nutmeg ; trout, 1 large, or 2 moderate-sized ; veal stock, ¾ pint ; parsley, small faggot ; 1 bay-leaf ; roll of lemon-rind ; little salt : ½ to ¾ hour. Obs. — Trout may be stewed in equal parts of strong veal gravy, and of red or white wine, without having been previously browned ; the sauce should then be thickened, and agreeably flavoured with lemon-juice, and the usual store-sauces, before it is poured over the fish. They are also good when wrapped in buttered paper, and baked or broiled : if very small, the better mode of cooking them is to fry them whole. They should never be plain boiled, as, though naturally a delicious fish, they are then very insipid. TO BOIL PIKE. In best season from September to February. Take out the gills, empty and clean the fish very thoroughly, and soak it for half an hour with a cup of vinegar thrown into as much water as will cover it well, should there be any danger of its having a muddy taste.* Wipe the inside dry, and fill it * Soaking fish is always better avoided when it can be so ; well washing the inside with strong vinegar would perhaps remove the objectionable flavour without it. [illustration: Trout.]