CHAPTER II MARKETING THE CHOICE OP POOD. Dr. Kitchener in his work, ‘ The Cook’s Oracle,’ truly said ‘ that all the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing, unless the cook be furnished with prime provisions.’ A sound knowledge of marketing and the selection of food, therefore, becomes the first necessity, because nothing can be of more importance in cookery than the choice of the proper food materials. So it is necessary to give a few brief instructions for marketing, and explain certain general principles which will be helpful in the selection of food. Rule I. Look over your larder and storeroom, and make a list of what is needed in fresh or perishable food, as well as dry or preserved goods, studying at the same time the bill of fare of that day, and in- clude such articles as will be needed to carry out the plan for the meals of the day. Rule II. Acquire as much knowledge as you can, by personal observation, and by asking questions of shopkeepers. Pretend to be ignorant, and when you know do not make a display of your know- ledge, but use it for your own benefit. Rule III. Buy only in the best markets : the more trade done at a place the more likely you are to get fresh goods. Remember also that the cheapest goods are not always the most economical to use. Rule IY. Study the markets from books and papers, make a few notes, and take them with you when you go marketing : this will aid you greatly. Rule V. Learn to understand how fish, meat, poultry and game should look and feel ; how to judge a joint of meat, and how to tell a young bird from an old one : how to judge fish when fresh or stale, sound fruit, fresh vegetables, &c. Rule YI. Be prepared to buy your experience at first. After a little time you will by careful observation become acquainted with those points which denote good quality, and you will soon become proficient in marketing. 22 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK PRACTICAL HINTS IN CHOOSING FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, VEGETABLES, ETC. The following points and hints are given to assist the inexperi- enced ones in the art of buying, but to become perfect in this branch one needs a great deal of practical experience. How to choose Fish. — In choosing fish the following rules should be observed : —The eyes should be bright, the flesh or body firm, the gills a bright red, and the smell should be swe'et and, pleasant. Fish should never be eaten when out of season, because it often disagrees- with the system. The flesh of white fish should always be firm to the touch ; when it is flabby arid has a blueish tinge it is a sign of its inferiority and staleness. Cod, when fresh and sound, should be judged by the redness of the gills, the whiteness, stiffness and firmness of the flesh, and the clear freshness of the eyes. All these are infallible proofs of its being good and fit for use. Salmon, when good, should have a small head, thick shoulders, and a small tail. The flesh should be of a bright red colour, and the scales should be very bright. Mackerel should not be bought unless quite fresh ; the fish will not keep, and should be cooked the day it is bought. Cod may be kept twenty-four hours, and soles the same. Eels should be bought alive. Soles, when fresh, are of a cream-like colour on the under-part, and when stale their appearance is blueish and flabby.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

CHAPTER II THE CHOICE OP POOD. Dr. Kitchener in his work, ‘ The Cook’s Oracle,’ truly said ‘ that all the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing, unless the cook be furnished with prime provisions.’ A sound knowledge of marketing and the selection of food, therefore, becomes the first necessity, because nothing can be of more importance in cookery than the choice of the proper food materials. So it is necessary to give a few brief instructions for marketing, and explain certain general principles which will be helpful in the selection of food. Rule I. Look over your larder and storeroom, and make a list of what is needed in fresh or perishable food, as well as dry or preserved goods, studying at the same time the bill of fare of that day, and include such articles as will be needed to carry out the plan for the meals of the day. Rule II. Acquire as much knowledge as you can, by personal observation, and by asking questions of shopkeepers. Pretend to be ignorant, and when you know do not make a display of your knowledge, but use it for your own benefit. Rule III. Buy only in the best markets : the more trade done at a place the more likely you are to get fresh goods. Remember also that the cheapest goods are not always the most economical to use. Rule IY. Study the markets from books and papers, make a few notes, and take them with you when you go marketing : this will aid you greatly. Rule V. Learn to understand how fish, meat, poultry and game should look and feel ; how to judge a joint of meat, and how to tell a young bird from an old one : how to judge fish when fresh or stale, sound fruit, fresh vegetables, &c. Rule YI. Be prepared to buy your experience at first. After a little time you will by careful observation become acquainted with those points which denote good quality, and you will soon become proficient in marketing. PRACTICAL HINTS IN CHOOSING FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, VEGETABLES, ETC. The following points and hints are given to assist the inexperienced ones in the art of buying, but to become perfect in this branch one needs a great deal of practical experience. How to choose Fish. — In choosing fish the following rules should be observed : —The eyes should be bright, the flesh or body firm, the gills a bright red, and the smell should be sweet and pleasant. Fish should never be eaten when out of season, because it often disagreeswith the system. The flesh of white fish should always be firm to the touch ; when it is flabby arid has a blueish tinge it is a sign of its inferiority and staleness. Cod, when fresh and sound, should be judged by the redness of the gills, the whiteness, stiffness and firmness of the flesh, and the clear freshness of the eyes. All these are infallible proofs of its being good and fit for use. Salmon, when good, should have a small head, thick shoulders, and a small tail. The flesh should be of a bright red colour, and the scales should be very bright. Mackerel should not be bought unless quite fresh ; the fish will not keep, and should be cooked the day it is bought. Cod may be kept twenty-four hours, and soles the same. Eels should be bought alive. Soles, when fresh, are of a cream-like colour on the under-part, and when stale their appearance is blueish and flabby.

The new century cookery book