FoodNetArchive

The new century cookery book

1901

Page 49

Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Bones are useful because they contain and provide a considerable amount of gelatinous matter, but in order to extract this, i.e. the gelatinous elements, from either meat or bones, it is necessary that they be subjected to a heat of not less than 200°, and that for several hours, otherwise the gelatine contained in the meat and bones will not dissolve. Gelatine is obtained from the bones, skin, and the gristly portions of meat, especially in veal. It is this which causes the stock to form a jelly when cold. It must, however, be remembered that though a soup or the stock may be firm when cold, it is by no means the most nourishing. The gelatine from bones and gristle, sinews, &c., boiled into soup can only furnish jelly for our bones, not nourishment for our body. Gelatinous stock is more easily digested, but it is devoid of flavour, unless meat is added. Gelatine may be defined as the concentrated animal substance which gives solidity or bulk to stock. Albumen and osmazome are dissolved and extracted from the meat in water, which is brought to a temperature of about 110°. Both provide flavour, a most essential item in stock-broth. Osmazome is that part of the meat which gives to each of the various kinds its distinctive flavour, and the more kinds employed in stock-making, the better the flavour will be. It is more abundant in brown than in white meats, and more so in the meat of old animals than young ones. It is largely repre- sented in lean beef, lean mutton, and in fowls. Osmazome is more highly developed in roast meats, and on this account all the trimmings, bones, &c., of roast joints should be saved and utilised for stock. Fat being necessary as an element of perfect food, must in due proportion be used in all stocks. Gristle fat and marrow fat are the best to use in meat stocks, but only in small proportion. Fat of this kind adds flavour, but that which is not absorbed must be re- moved when the stock is finished. To remove the fat continually is therefore not so essential, unless the meat used is very fat. To remove fat use an iron spoon. Put it with other fat for the purpose of clarification. Alkaline and Acid Salts are necessary for a good stock. These constituents are found in the blood and juices of raw flesh. This is the reason why raw meat must always form part of the stock in- gredients, whilst the various kinds of soup vegetables provide the necessary salts, &c. 84 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK Rules for Stock-making.— 1. Exercise care in selecting the proportion of meat, bones, and vegetables. See that everything is perfectly fresh, and that the utensils used are absolutely clean. 2. Cut meat and chop bones into small pieces. Use double the weight of water to that of meat and bones, the average quantity being a quart of water to every pound of meat and bone, used in pro- portion of f lb, meat and £ lb. bone. 3. Start the stock with cold water, and let meat and bones soak for a while, if possible, before being heated. Cold water draws out and dissolves the meat-juices remarkably. 4. Use a well-tinned stock-pot, copper, tin, or iron. The former is best. For small households the earthenware marmite or stock-pot is highly recommended, as a smaller amount of heat is required to keep contents at simmering point than if a copper or iron pot is used. Stock thus prepared must be brought slowly to boil.