FoodNetArchive

The new century cookery book

1901

Page 54

Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The most popular thick soups are: — Chicken (a la reine), Windsor (mutton and beef), real turtle, and mock turtle, ox-tail, mulligatawny, game soups, veloutes (veal), duck, pigeon, turkey, &e. These are clearly distinct from purees, which are thickened by the ingredients of which they are mainly composed, and are comprised principally of vegetables, including carrot (Crecy), artichokes (Jerusalem), potatoes (Parmentier or Jackson), peas, cauliflower, marrow, cucumber, spinach, Brussels sprouts, &c. &c. The latter are as a rule served without garnish. Creams and Filtered Soups.— Almost every puree or thick soup, with the exception of brown soups, may be converted into creams by using cream in place of some of the butter and yolks of eggs. On the other hand many creams can be made into purees by suppressing the cream and yolks of eggs, and stirring in just before serving a small quantity of fresh butter. The following are some of the most popular creams known : — Asparagus Artichoke Barley Celery Lettuce Peas Sorrel Turnips Cucumber Cauliflower Tapioca Sago Semolina Oatmeal Leeks &c. &e. Bisques or Shell-fish Soups. —These are prepared with fish stock or meat stock, shell-fish, and the usual thickening. History shows that bisque soups were made between the years 1700-1730, though they were not in the modern form of a smooth puree, but more like stews, for, in addition to fish, quails and pullets were used in the preparation, whilst the modern bisque is simply a puree thickened with flour or rice, accompanied with various garnishings. Bisques are divided into four classes : — 1. Those made of lobster. 2. Those made of cray-fish or shrimps. 3. Those made of crabs or craw -fish. 4. Those made of mussels or oysters. They are usually highly seasoned, slightly coloured, and less consistent than either a puree or thick soup. The garnishing as a rule consists of a simple accompaniment. Fish Soups. — These are generally more acceptable for the sick-room than for the ordinary dinner-table. Oyster soup is the only kind of fish soup ever served in the ordinary way under this heading, although there are other fish purees, or fish creams, which may with advantage be served as soups, even for fashionable dinner-tables, but more especially during Lent. Cosmopolitan or Mixed Soups. — The remainder of soups must 90 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK be classified under the last heading, cosmopolitan or mixed soups. The number of these preparations is both large and varied, the Bouillabaise, Bortsch, Okra, Faubonne, Fermiere, Gumbo, Gnocquis, and other foreign soups, also the national soups, such as hotch-potch, Scotch broth, cock-a-leekie, &c., are included in this list. Sick-room Soups. — There are also a number of soup prepara- tions such as beef tea, frog broth, beef-juice, chicken and veal tea, oat and barley broth, which come under the heading of soups. These apply specially to sick-room cookery, and invalid diet. Service of Soups. — Two or more soups are served for large dinners or elaborate banquets, in which case clear soup is served first. The tendencies of modern dinner-parties being to shorten the service, only one soup is served, unless the dinner is for a large number, when occasionally the choice of two soups is given, viz. a clear and a thick soup.