On grand banquet occasions massive silver centre-pieces, with flowers and fruit, great candelabra, and so on, are admissible ; but, as a rule, flowers and foliage are laid on the cloth, and single blossoms or small groups placed in miniature specimen glasses. Plants, except on big tables, are diminutive, the pots hidden in tiny silver or porcelain vases. The aim is that guests should always enjoy an unobstructed view. In the best houses flowers and fruit are placed on the table from the first. This certainly adds to the elegance of the general effect. Much ingenuity — and money — can be spent in working out a ‘ scheme of colour,’ a certain tint play- ing a dominant note, not only in the floral decorations, but even in the garnishing of dishes. But this is a matter for exceptional adoption. Menu cards may be plain or elaborate. If plain cards are used ; they are generally placed in silver frames or small holders, which sometimes take the form of china shells or mounds with slits in which the bottom of the card is placed. At informal meals a menu may be placed between two people, and this plan largely prevails in restau- rants ; but at formal dinner-parties individual cards are necessary. The name cards may be placed either on the napkin or in separate holders. At the better-class hotels and restaurants plain cards with monograms or armorial bearings are usual, elaborate cards being re- served for special occasions. Individual salt-cellars, preferably in cut glass, are provided in the best houses, with miniature cruets — pepper and mustard, or pepper, mustard, and vinegar — placed between every two guests. Oil and vinegar cruets and sauce cruets are only brought forward when neces- sary. It used to be the fashion to surround a guest’s place with a formidable battle array of forks, spoons, knives, and squads of glasses. This lavishness still prevails in some quarters, and, no doubt, when heavy dinners and quick service are demanded this practice may be excused. It is, however, now considered better style not to embarrass diners with too many articles ; so on carefully laid tables we generally find soup spoon, fish eaters, large and small forks and knives, and dessert spoon. If more forks and knives are required they are brought on with the clean plates. In the same way we now only see three glasses — sherry, champagne, and claret or tumbler — other 704 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK glasses being added if required. Coloured glasses are no longer considered in good taste. White glass, plain or beautifully cut and engraved, is fashionable. The water carafe is now much in evidence. As regards bread small rolls are usual. They are placed in the napkin, and others handed when asked for. Many people, however, ■only take wholemeal bread or dry toast : these are cut in thin slices and placed on small plates on the left hand of the guests. Even when a room is lit by electricity or gas dwarf candlesticks or lamps are often used on the table, the lights being hidden by silk shapes of red or some other harmonising tint. As regards the menu over-elaboration is generally avoided. On 'Ordinary occasions oysters or hors-d’oeuvre, soup, fish, two meat dishes, vegetables and potatoes, game or poultry ; and perhaps a salad, a pudding, cheese, savoury, and coffee will suffice. The carte du jour in a good house will, of course, comprise a score or more dishes. HOW TO WAIT AT TABLE.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

On grand banquet occasions massive silver centre-pieces, with flowers and fruit, great candelabra, and so on, are admissible ; but, as a rule, flowers and foliage are laid on the cloth, and single blossoms or small groups placed in miniature specimen glasses. Plants, except on big tables, are diminutive, the pots hidden in tiny silver or porcelain vases. The aim is that guests should always enjoy an unobstructed view. In the best houses flowers and fruit are placed on the table from the first. This certainly adds to the elegance of the general effect. Much ingenuity — and money — can be spent in working out a ‘ scheme of colour,’ a certain tint playing a dominant note, not only in the floral decorations, but even in the garnishing of dishes. But this is a matter for exceptional adoption. Menu cards may be plain or elaborate. If plain cards are used ; they are generally placed in silver frames or small holders, which sometimes take the form of china shells or mounds with slits in which the bottom of the card is placed. At informal meals a menu may be placed between two people, and this plan largely prevails in restaurants ; but at formal dinner-parties individual cards are necessary. The name cards may be placed either on the napkin or in separate holders. At the better-class hotels and restaurants plain cards with monograms or armorial bearings are usual, elaborate cards being reserved for special occasions. Individual salt-cellars, preferably in cut glass, are provided in the best houses, with miniature cruets — pepper and mustard, or pepper, mustard, and vinegar — placed between every two guests. Oil and vinegar cruets and sauce cruets are only brought forward when necessary. It used to be the fashion to surround a guest’s place with a formidable battle array of forks, spoons, knives, and squads of glasses. This lavishness still prevails in some quarters, and, no doubt, when heavy dinners and quick service are demanded this practice may be excused. It is, however, now considered better style not to embarrass diners with too many articles ; so on carefully laid tables we generally find soup spoon, fish eaters, large and small forks and knives, and dessert spoon. If more forks and knives are required they are brought on with the clean plates. In the same way we now only see three glasses — sherry, champagne, and claret or tumbler — other glasses being added if required. Coloured glasses are no longer considered in good taste. White glass, plain or beautifully cut and engraved, is fashionable. The water carafe is now much in evidence. As regards bread small rolls are usual. They are placed in the napkin, and others handed when asked for. Many people, however, ■only take wholemeal bread or dry toast : these are cut in thin slices and placed on small plates on the left hand of the guests. Even when a room is lit by electricity or gas dwarf candlesticks or lamps are often used on the table, the lights being hidden by silk shapes of red or some other harmonising tint. As regards the menu over-elaboration is generally avoided. On 'Ordinary occasions oysters or hors-d’oeuvre, soup, fish, two meat dishes, vegetables and potatoes, game or poultry ; and perhaps a salad, a pudding, cheese, savoury, and coffee will suffice. The carte du jour in a good house will, of course, comprise a score or more dishes. HOW TO WAIT AT TABLE.

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