FoodNetArchive

The new century cookery book

1901

Page 81

Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
SPECIMENS OF ARTISTIC CONFECTIONERY, SHOWING HOW SPUN AND PULLED SUGAR CAN BE MANIPULATED 123 CHAPTER XIII HOBS D'CEUVRE ( APPETISERS ) The origin of this interesting course is to be found in the Russian ‘ Zabouska ’ Foretesti, known in Sweden as ‘ Smorgabrod,’ wherewith these nations preface what is known as a solid repast. In this country, as well as in Russia, and Sweden and Norway, hors d’oeuvre are served as the commencing course, i.e. the dishes with which a dinner is started. The service of this course in England is, however, not the same as it is in Russia or Sweden, where the various dainties forming the hors d’oeuvre course are partaken with strong liqueurs—' Vodka,’ a kind of Russian whisky, or ‘ Kummel.’ The English and French do not favour this, and many look upon it with profound contempt : it is therefore not likely to become popular at English dinner-tables. There are two classes of hors d’ceuvre, plain and dressed. The most popular and most highly esteemed hors d’oeuvre are oysters, when in season, which is for eight months (all the months in which there is an ‘ R ’) ; they are known as the ‘ king of hors d’oeuvre.’ Next in popularity to the oyster comes caviare. Oysters are served each in its deep shell, and handed round with quarters of lemons and thin brown bread and butter (daintily shaped), cayenne pepper, and chilli vinegar. Caviare is usually mixed with finely chopped shallots„and lemon- juice ; both these ingredients must be used sparingly, and the mixing- must be done with a wooden fork or a wooden skewer. Caviare should never be touched with a metal utensil. Both oysters and caviare thus served are classed as plain hors d’oeuvre. Others generally adopted in this class are, cucumbers, radishes, olives, pickles, sardines, anchovies, prawns, crayfish, lax, herring-fillets, tunny, smoked salmon, roes, smoked sausages (such as salami, Gotha, Strasbourg, Lyons, Brunswick), smoked ham (raw), and other fish and viands of the smoked or pickled description. Many of these, especially the fish, are dressed on canapes (fried or toasted slices of bread daintily cut), but when such is the case they are classed as dressed hors d’oeuvre. All kinds of sandwiches, daintily prepared, also adapt themselves as hors d’oeuvre. 41. JZeuvre {Butter). — Fresh butter is usually served at most dinners as an accompaniment with hors d’oeuvre. It is served in little pats, in the shape of small shells or little rolls (thin slices rolled). Served in little glass dishes or boats ; in hot weather put 124 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK a little iced water in each boat ; garnish with tiny sprigs of curly parsley. 42. Radis (Radishes). — Choose small, round, and firm radishes of a light red and white colour. Trim and wash them in plenty of water (the outer skins should he scraped off and the leaves cut to an inch in length). Dish up in little boats, or glass dishes, with a little cold water. 43. Cornichons (Gherkins). — Choose these small, firm, and green, an^l serve in little glass dishes neatly dressed, moistened with a little French wine vinegar.