Veal Sweetbreads are far more delicate and far more ex- pensive than Lamb Sweetbreads. There are two kinds, called by butchers for some inscrutable reason heart and throat Sweet- breads ; of these the former are the largest and best. Both Tendons and Sweetbreads are generally brushed over very lightly with pale glaze. To Cook Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads need most careful cooking, and are extremely difficult to lard. They ought when done to look nearly white, and the larding ought to be transparent, TO COOK SWEETBREADS 185 white at the bottom, pale yellow at the top, and quite firm. Be most careful to take all the skin away, and all the tough pieces of cartilage which seem to tie the body of the Sweetbreads together. Lay the Sweetbreads in cold water for one hour ; change the water after half an hour. If they do not look plump and white at the end of the hour change the water again, and leave them for another hour. Then lard them. Lay the Sweet- breads in a braising-pan just large enough to hold them comfort- ably side by side, touching, but not pressing upon each other ; put two slices of bacon under them, and fill the space between the Sweetbreads and the sides of the pan with bacon. Then gently pour in very good stock till it is just deep enough not to touch the larding, which must stand up free. Butter a piece of paper✪ To Cook Sweetbreads, and lay it very lightly on the top of the larding. Put the pan, without the lid, on the hot-plate, and let it simmer for one hour very gently. Watch it to see that the stock does not waste ; if it does, add a spoonful from time to time. At the end of the hour take away the paper, put the lid on the pan, fill the lid with hot coals. Leave the pan on the hot-plate for three-quarters of an hour. Put fresh coals on as the first supply cools, and after a quarter of an hour take the lid off now and then to see that the stock is not wasting and the Sweetbreads getting dry, and that the larding is not turning dark. The moment the larding shows the least tinge of yellow the Sweetbreads are done. Draw the pan to a cool part of the stove till it is time to serve the Sweetbreads, but be careful to manage the time so as not to keep them waiting after the braising is finished. French cooks con- trive to colour the larding during the braising, but as this requires much experience and judgment, and as a few minutes’ over- cooking would spoil the Sweetbreads, it is safer to stop the braising at the first sign of colour in the larding. Lay the Sweetbreads on a hot dish, have ready the hot salamander and just colour the tips of the larding a delicate golden brown. Brush some very clear pale glaze over the Sweetbreads, carefully avoiding the larding. Sweetbreads are served with tomato sauce, or a la finand'ere with mushrooms and small quenelles. Some people think that braising destroys the delicate flavour of Sweetbreads. In this case the Sweetbreads should, after steeping, be thrown into boiling water and boiled for three minutes. This makes them firm, VEAL 1 86 and prevents their turning sour. Then cut the Sweetbreads into pieces three-quarters of an inch thick, egg and breadcrumb the pieces, and fry a golden brown. Serve on a napkin, with fried parsley in the centre, and hand quarters of lemon.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Veal Sweetbreads are far more delicate and far more expensive than Lamb Sweetbreads. There are two kinds, called by butchers for some inscrutable reason heart and throat Sweetbreads ; of these the former are the largest and best. Both Tendons and Sweetbreads are generally brushed over very lightly with pale glaze. To Cook Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads need most careful cooking, and are extremely difficult to lard. They ought when done to look nearly white, and the larding ought to be transparent, TO COOK SWEETBREADS 185 white at the bottom, pale yellow at the top, and quite firm. Be most careful to take all the skin away, and all the tough pieces of cartilage which seem to tie the body of the Sweetbreads together. Lay the Sweetbreads in cold water for one hour ; change the water after half an hour. If they do not look plump and white at the end of the hour change the water again, and leave them for another hour. Then lard them. Lay the Sweetbreads in a braising-pan just large enough to hold them comfortably side by side, touching, but not pressing upon each other ; put two slices of bacon under them, and fill the space between the Sweetbreads and the sides of the pan with bacon. Then gently pour in very good stock till it is just deep enough not to touch the larding, which must stand up free. Butter a piece of paper, and lay it very lightly on the top of the larding. Put the pan, without the lid, on the hot-plate, and let it simmer for one hour very gently. Watch it to see that the stock does not waste ; if it does, add a spoonful from time to time. At the end of the hour take away the paper, put the lid on the pan, fill the lid with hot coals. Leave the pan on the hot-plate for three-quarters of an hour. Put fresh coals on as the first supply cools, and after a quarter of an hour take the lid off now and then to see that the stock is not wasting and the Sweetbreads getting dry, and that the larding is not turning dark. The moment the larding shows the least tinge of yellow the Sweetbreads are done. Draw the pan to a cool part of the stove till it is time to serve the Sweetbreads, but be careful to manage the time so as not to keep them waiting after the braising is finished. French cooks contrive to colour the larding during the braising, but as this requires much experience and judgment, and as a few minutes’ overcooking would spoil the Sweetbreads, it is safer to stop the braising at the first sign of colour in the larding. Lay the Sweetbreads on a hot dish, have ready the hot salamander and just colour the tips of the larding a delicate golden brown. Brush some very clear pale glaze over the Sweetbreads, carefully avoiding the larding. Sweetbreads are served with tomato sauce, or a la financière with mushrooms and small quenelles. Some people think that braising destroys the delicate flavour of Sweetbreads. In this case the Sweetbreads should, after steeping, be thrown into boiling water and boiled for three minutes. This makes them firm, 1 86 and prevents their turning sour. Then cut the Sweetbreads into pieces three-quarters of an inch thick, egg and breadcrumb the pieces, and fry a golden brown. Serve on a napkin, with fried parsley in the centre, and hand quarters of lemon.

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To Cook Sweetbreads

Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book