Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book

When Geese and Ducks are young the feet are elastic, pliable, and yellow in colour ; if the feet are red, stiff, and hard it is a sure sign of age. Geese should be eaten when under a year old ; after that time their skin becomes hairy, and the flesh coarse and tough. Geese, unlike Ducks, live chiefly on vegetable food. Turkeys originally came from North America. America was then believed to join India, and Turkeys were called Coqs d'Inde, a name which survives in the French dinde. Turkeys should have bright red wattles, an unwrinkled skin, and soft pliable feet. Very large Turkeys are generally old. Guinea Fowl were introduced into this country from Eastern Africa. They are rather dry in flavour, but are useful as coming in when game is over and spring chickens are not ready. Pigeons should be plump, with pliable feet, and must on no account be hung. “ Squabs ” are unfledged Pigeons. Bordeaux Pigeons are much larger than English Pigeons, and when in perfection weigh ten ounces. They are occasionally reared in POULTRY AND SMALL BIRDS the South of England, but as a rule they come from the South of France, and from Italy. SMALL BIRDS. Quail are migratory birds, and are netted in immense numbers when they have crossed the Mediterranean from the South in March and April, and again, in still larger numbers, on their return journey at the end of September. Quail are hardy enough to bear the journey to England, in cages darkened to prevent the occupants from fighting. Each cage has a trough of water, and another of millet, or hemp-seed. Quail are much improved if this feeding can be continued for a few days after their arrival here, as they very quickly fatten. Plover are also migratory birds. The Grey Plover can be distinguished from the Golden Plover by the attempt at a hindtoe on each foot. The Grey Plover is found at various seasons all over the world. The Golden Plover breeds in Iceland, Siberia, and the North of England. The flocks of Golden Plover are very large, and many birds are caught or shot on their way to their winter quarters in South Africa, as they remain in this country till frost drives them away. The Lapwing, or Pee- wit, familiar to those who live on “ poor, cold, Pee-witty land,” is found all over the world. It contrives to find food on the most wretched pasture. A down or a fen, an arable field, or a damp meadow, are all alike to the “ Farmer’s Friend,” as the Pee-wit is often called. The eggs of this Plover are a great delicacy, and they are collected and sold to such an extent that one wonders that any Pee-wits still exist. The eggs, like those of the Rook, vary very much in colour and marking, and Rooks’ eggs are substituted sometimes for Plovers’ eggs. Plovers, however, lay their eggs on the ground, whilst Rooks baffle collectors by building their nests on the tops of the tallest trees. In a menu Plovers’ Eggs should be called CEufs de Vanneau, as Vanneau and not Pluvier is the name of the Pee-wit. As to Larks I much regret that they should be eaten at all, and rejoice that such an Association as the British Produce Supply declines to sell them. Personally I have never either SMALL BIRDS tasted or bought a Lark, for I would not connive at the slaughter of a bird which, to use Izaak Walton’s words, “ breathes such sweet loud music out of her little instrumental throat.”