Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book

The negro and the Indian native are well aware of the four essential points in cooking Rice — points which are neglected by the English cook and to which neglect her failure is due. These are : — 1. The English cook does not take the trouble to wash the Rice well in cold water, so as to remove all grit and impurity. 2. She uses too small a pan for boiling the Rice. 3. She generally boils the Rice too slowly or too long. Sometimes she commits the fatal error of putting it on in water which is not at a hard boil. 4. She dries the Rice too quickly and at too great a heat. This makes the grains stick together, whereas slow and careful drying gets rid of all the starch which remains after the first washing. There are two kinds of Rice, the Patna from the East Indies, and the Carolina from the West Indies and the Southern States of America. Carolina Rice has larger grains than Patna Rice. As all Rice swells in boiling to four times its original size three quarts and a half of water must be allowed for six ounces of Carolina Rice, and three quarts of water for six ounces of Patna Rice. This proportion must be strictly attended to. In pinching a grain to see if the Rice is done ascertain that there is no hard centre, but that the Rice is firm yet soft throughout. Some of the Rice is sure to stick to the bottom of the pan, but if a quarter of an ounce of butter is put in the grains will all come away as it melts. If the above directions are carefully followed Rice cannot fail to be properly boiled. Risotto a la Milanaise for two persons — (Sir H. Thompson's Recipe.) — Put two ounces of fresh butter with three ounces of onion chopped very fine into a stewpan, and fry until the onion has a pale gold colour. Then add six ounces of well-washed Patna Rice, with a very little powdered saffron, stirring it constantly for about two minutes with a wooden spoon, so that it does not stick to the pan ; after this two minutes’ cooking add about a pint of good stock very gradually, until the Rice is just soft. Before it is quite finished add an atom or two of grated nutmeg (if liked), and an ounce or more, according to taste, of Parmesan cheese grated. After this, cook, stirring well, for two or three minutes. Then remove the pan from the fire and set it on the hot-plate. Add a little more butter, cover for a few minutes, and serve. The quantity of stock can be varied according as the Risotto is preferred thick or otherwise. Sir Henry Thompson does not explain that the reason for the constant stirring is that if this is neglected the Rice will burn and the dish will be spoilt. The pinch of saffron is merely used to give a yellow tint to the Rice. Rice à l'Italienne. — Into four ounces of well-boiled Rice as it lies in the hot saucepan stir one ounce of butter. Stir till thoroughly mixed, dust with pepper and salt, add enough tomato pulp to moisten the whole nicely, and finish with two ounces of finely-grated Parmesan, Gruyere, or other mild dry cheese. Serve piping hot. When lifted with the fork the grains of Rice should carry with them long strings or tendrils of melted cheese as in the case of Macaroni à l'Italienne. [Wyvern.]