Thus, Crecy soup takes its name from the specially good carrots grown at Crecy ; dishes a la Pretonne from the haricot beans for which Brittany is famous ; chicken a la Marengo from Napoleon’s battle in 1800. Garlic, a bulb popular all over the South of France, is generally present in dishes a la Provengale. Sauce d’Argenteuil, for asparagus, takes its name from Argenteuil, where asparagus is chiefly cultivated. In England the custom has been quite different. “ The roast beef of Old England ” gave its name to a well-known tune, but dishes have seldom been called after celebrated men. The names of Wellington, Blucher, and Napoleon, were given to boots ; Lord Brougham’s name will always be associated with the carriage which he invented, and Lord Chesterfield s with the pattern of an overcoat. Even our excellent English dish, the ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKERY 45i Apple Charlotte, cannot be connected with the austere and frugal Queen Charlotte. Only a few of our puddings are named in the French fashion, such as Victoria Pudding, Sir Watkin’s Pudding, Cabinet Pudding. English people have been content to call their simple dishes after the places famous for them ; such as York Hams, Melton Mowbray Pork Pies, Bath Buns, Grantham Gingerbread, and many others. Most entrees therefore must have French names, and in these it is far better to use well- known titles instead of the ridiculous substitutes of cooks and cookery schools in the present day, which can convey no meaning to anybody. In many cases a trivial alteration (or too often a barbarous change), and a new and fanciful name, conceals one of the good entrees devised years ago. There are numbers of French cook’s terms which cannot be found in any dictionary, but Dallas is considered to be the most accomplished philologist in regard to culinary words.* These words are often full of interest. For instance, bouillabaisse is derived from bouillon abaisse, or reduced broth, and originally had no special reference to fish. Fricandeau is a Proven9al word meaning something nice, and is, like fricassee, derived from fric or frique, brisk ; fricancl, dainty ; fricot, a dainty dish. The word has in course of time become associated with a dish of veal only, but this was not the case originally. Civet de lievre comes from the old French word cive, chive, the herb with which the dish is flavoured. Ragout, which now means a stew, really means merely a relish, and Ravigote originally meant a pick-me-up and not a seasoning. Our English word Saveloy is a corruption of the French cei-velle, brains, for this kind of sausage was formerly made of pigs’ brains. Dallas traces the word souchy to the Flemish zootje, a little thing, and says it is as near as possible in root and meaning to the old-English word seethed. In a souchy the fish used are always small, and always seethed or simmered. * See Kettner’s “Book of the Table, 1877.” o g 2 452 CHAPTER XVII. ON PASTRY MAKING. The art of making good Pastry is a gift rather than an acquire- ment. It requires a light touch, cool hands, practice, and dexterity, as well as the most scrupulous cleanliness. But any- body who will take pains and closely follow a few simple rules may at least improve in making Pastry, even if perfection in the art cannot be attained.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Thus, Crecy soup takes its name from the specially good carrots grown at Crecy ; dishes a la Pretonne from the haricot beans for which Brittany is famous ; chicken a la Marengo from Napoleon’s battle in 1800. Garlic, a bulb popular all over the South of France, is generally present in dishes a la Provençale. Sauce d’Argenteuil, for asparagus, takes its name from Argenteuil, where asparagus is chiefly cultivated. In England the custom has been quite different. “ The roast beef of Old England ” gave its name to a well-known tune, but dishes have seldom been called after celebrated men. The names of Wellington, Blucher, and Napoleon, were given to boots ; Lord Brougham’s name will always be associated with the carriage which he invented, and Lord Chesterfield's with the pattern of an overcoat. Even our excellent English dish, the Apple Charlotte, cannot be connected with the austere and frugal Queen Charlotte. Only a few of our puddings are named in the French fashion, such as Victoria Pudding, Sir Watkin’s Pudding, Cabinet Pudding. English people have been content to call their simple dishes after the places famous for them ; such as York Hams, Melton Mowbray Pork Pies, Bath Buns, Grantham Gingerbread, and many others. Most entrees therefore must have French names, and in these it is far better to use wellknown titles instead of the ridiculous substitutes of cooks and cookery schools in the present day, which can convey no meaning to anybody. In many cases a trivial alteration (or too often a barbarous change), and a new and fanciful name, conceals one of the good entrees devised years ago. There are numbers of French cook’s terms which cannot be found in any dictionary, but Dallas is considered to be the most accomplished philologist in regard to culinary words.* These words are often full of interest. For instance, bouillabaisse is derived from bouillon abaisse, or reduced broth, and originally had no special reference to fish. Fricandeau is a Provençal word meaning something nice, and is, like fricassee, derived from fric or frique, brisk ; fricancl, dainty ; fricot, a dainty dish. The word has in course of time become associated with a dish of veal only, but this was not the case originally. Civet de lievre comes from the old French word cive, chive, the herb with which the dish is flavoured. Ragout, which now means a stew, really means merely a relish, and Ravigote originally meant a pick-me-up and not a seasoning. Our English word Saveloy is a corruption of the French cei-velle, brains, for this kind of sausage was formerly made of pigs’ brains. Dallas traces the word souchy to the Flemish zootje, a little thing, and says it is as near as possible in root and meaning to the old-English word seethed. In a souchy the fish used are always small, and always seethed or simmered. * See Kettner’s “Book of the Table, 1877.” CHAPTER XVII. The art of making good Pastry is a gift rather than an acquirement. It requires a light touch, cool hands, practice, and dexterity, as well as the most scrupulous cleanliness. But anybody who will take pains and closely follow a few simple rules may at least improve in making Pastry, even if perfection in the art cannot be attained.

Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book