Steaming’. — Steaming meat has somewhat the same effect as Braising it, for in both cases the meat is cooked in its own vapour and juices. But, unlike Braising, Steaming requires little expenditure in fuel and little skill on the part of the cook. The meat is put into a hermetically-closed pot, or steamer, with boiling water under it and all round it. The water must be kept at a fast boil, or the meat will be sodden, owing to an insufficient force of steam. Steaming is a slower process than boiling, but it is infinitely superior. All the juices of the meat are preserved, nothing is wasted, and the flavour of whatever is steamed, whether meat, fish, or poultry, is far better than when it has been boiled. Steaming is specially applicable to fish, and to any poultry intended for in- valids. It is a great mistake to partly roast meat or poultry before steaming it, for this method gives an undecided and un- pleasant flavour. Jug’g’ing’. — For the introduction of this process into England, after it has been for ages familiar to the natives of Southern India, we have to thank Wyvern. It is an admirable method of cooking cutlets, beef-steak, and boned and flattened poultry or game. Whatever is jugged is extremely tender, and full of excellent gravy. Indian native cooks manage Jugging between two soup-plates sealed together with strong paste ; but here it should be done either in a tin made on purpose, or in a fire-proof dish with a cover. The indis- pensable thing in Jugging is that the cover should be fastened so tightly on that all air is excluded whilst the meat is cooking. A tin for Jugging is easily made by any ironmonger. It should be oval, ten inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and not JUGGING *47 more than two inches deep. The upper edge of the tin should be turned outwards like a pie-dish, and it must be half an inch wide, so that the flat tin cover can be pasted closely to it. There should be a ring at each end of the tin to serve for handles. The tin cover must also be oval, quite flat, and rather larger than the inside measurements of the tin. Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into cutlets, and with the trim- mings and any scraps of other meat or bones make half a pint of broth, flavouring it with a bit of onion and a few pepper- corns. Scald the tin, and cool it in cold water. Spread the bottom of it with slices of onion, lay the cutlets, well peppered, on the onion and cover them with a sliced carrot, a young turnip sliced, an ounce of celery cut into half-inch lengths, two medium-sized onions sliced, a bunch of parsley, and, if liked, two tomatoes peeled and sliced. Add to the broth half an ounce of glaze, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a salt- spoonful of sal✪ Jugged Muttont, and pour it into the tin. Seal the lid all round with stiff paste, fastening it securely to the flat edge of the tin. Put the tin into a shallow pan, and pour boiling- water round it one-third the depth of the tin. Keep the pan on the fire for two hours. The meat will then be cooked. Cut the lid off the tin, pin a napkin round the tin itself, and send it up immediately, placed upon a dish. If liked, the broth can be strained, skimmed, thickened, improved with a table- spoonful of Marsala, and freshly poured over the meat and vegetables just before serving. If poultry or game is Jugged in this way, make the broth of the giblets and bones.

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Steaming’. — Steaming meat has somewhat the same effect as Braising it, for in both cases the meat is cooked in its own vapour and juices. But, unlike Braising, Steaming requires little expenditure in fuel and little skill on the part of the cook. The meat is put into a hermetically-closed pot, or steamer, with boiling water under it and all round it. The water must be kept at a fast boil, or the meat will be sodden, owing to an insufficient force of steam. Steaming is a slower process than boiling, but it is infinitely superior. All the juices of the meat are preserved, nothing is wasted, and the flavour of whatever is steamed, whether meat, fish, or poultry, is far better than when it has been boiled. Steaming is specially applicable to fish, and to any poultry intended for in- valids. It is a great mistake to partly roast meat or poultry before steaming it, for this method gives an undecided and un- pleasant flavour. Jug’g’ing’. — For the introduction of this process into England, after it has been for ages familiar to the natives of Southern India, we have to thank Wyvern. It is an admirable method of cooking cutlets, beef-steak, and boned and flattened poultry or game. Whatever is jugged is extremely tender, and full of excellent gravy. Indian native cooks manage Jugging between two soup-plates sealed together with strong paste ; but here it should be done either in a tin made on purpose, or in a fire-proof dish with a cover. The indis- pensable thing in Jugging is that the cover should be fastened so tightly on that all air is excluded whilst the meat is cooking. A tin for Jugging is easily made by any ironmonger. It should be oval, ten inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and not JUGGING *47 more than two inches deep. The upper edge of the tin should be turned outwards like a pie-dish, and it must be half an inch wide, so that the flat tin cover can be pasted closely to it. There should be a ring at each end of the tin to serve for handles. The tin cover must also be oval, quite flat, and rather larger than the inside measurements of the tin. Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into cutlets, and with the trim- mings and any scraps of other meat or bones make half a pint of broth, flavouring it with a bit of onion and a few pepper- corns. Scald the tin, and cool it in cold water. Spread the bottom of it with slices of onion, lay the cutlets, well peppered, on the onion and cover them with a sliced carrot, a young turnip sliced, an ounce of celery cut into half-inch lengths, two medium-sized onions sliced, a bunch of parsley, and, if liked, two tomatoes peeled and sliced. Add to the broth half an ounce of glaze, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a salt- spoonful of salt, and pour it into the tin. Seal the lid all round with stiff paste, fastening it securely to the flat edge of the tin. Put the tin into a shallow pan, and pour boiling- water round it one-third the depth of the tin. Keep the pan on the fire for two hours. The meat will then be cooked. Cut the lid off the tin, pin a napkin round the tin itself, and send it up immediately, placed upon a dish. If liked, the broth can be strained, skimmed, thickened, improved with a table- spoonful of Marsala, and freshly poured over the meat and vegetables just before serving. If poultry or game is Jugged in this way, make the broth of the giblets and bones.

Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book