coffee, which slightly prolongs the separation of the party, though not so long as the fatal practice of re- tiring to \hQ fiunoir^ which is now almost universal in Paris ; but although this custom of mitigated smoking after dinner is sanctioned by very high examples, it is more honoured in the breach than in the observance, and it is scarcely consistent with the attention due to the fairer portion of society. About forty years ago a little work on the art of giving dinners was published by Mr. Walker, the author of ' The Original,' which acquired considerable celebrity and some authority, and has even been re- published in our own times. But nothing can more clearly demonstrate the entire change of the fashions which preside over the dinner-table than a perusal of Mr. Walker's commentary on them. He recommends the utmost simplicity, and would invite his friends to dine off a slice of salmon and a woodcock. Modern dinners are remarkable for their extreme variety. The classic saddle of mutton and boiled chickens, which used to make their invariable appearance at the two ends of the board, to be carved by the host and hostess, are as extinct as the roast goose of the last century. In place of an elaborate display of corner dishes, some of them of an architectural character, we have ornaments and flowers. A in otic or programme of the dinner ought to be placed within reach of each guest. In the houses of the wealthy these are commonly printed, sometimes with great elegance. In small houses a white slate or porcelain slab sup- plies their place. But it is essential that the guest should know what he has to expect, and how to re- VARIETY OF FOOD. ii gulate his choice. Much is to be said {J)ace Mr. Walker) in defence of the variety of modern cookeiy. We are convinced that it is far more wholesome, as well as more agreeable, to partake of several dishes of a different composition, than to dine off a solid slice of beef or mutton, provided the golden rule be ob- served, never to eat too miich of any one of them. A very small portion of each dish is enough, and it is hardly necessary to add that no one but an alderman ever repeats his allowance and asks for a second helping. Une fois de chaqiie plat is said to be the maxim of a great French authority, and, provided the entrees and the entremets do not exceed two of each class, which is quite enough, we do not think it a bad one. A good deal of French cookery has now been introduced even into English middle-class households. We hope this little volume may tend to increase the use of it, for dishes cooked in the French fashion are generally light and digestible, equally good for the palate and the stomach. But it should be remembered that a well-cooked dish is complete in itself. Its character is destroyed by the peculiar British habit of accumulating vegetables, sauces, and miscellaneous additions upon the same plate to be eaten at the same time. The various parts of a dinner ought to be served in succession and not eaten together or pro- miscuously. In justice to the givers of the dinners and the cook, each guest should know what he is eating — always moderately, the more moderately the better — but not without discernment. The best result of a well- managed dinner is that the guests should rise from 12 IMPORTANCE OF AIR. it without lassitude, and with a slight remnant of appetite.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

coffee, which slightly prolongs the separation of the party, though not so long as the fatal practice of retiring to the fumeir which is now almost universal in Paris ; but although this custom of mitigated smoking after dinner is sanctioned by very high examples, it is more honoured in the breach than in the observance, and it is scarcely consistent with the attention due to the fairer portion of society. About forty years ago a little work on the art of giving dinners was published by Mr. Walker, the author of ' The Original,' which acquired considerable celebrity and some authority, and has even been republished in our own times. But nothing can more clearly demonstrate the entire change of the fashions which preside over the dinner-table than a perusal of Mr. Walker's commentary on them. He recommends the utmost simplicity, and would invite his friends to dine off a slice of salmon and a woodcock. Modern dinners are remarkable for their extreme variety. The classic saddle of mutton and boiled chickens, which used to make their invariable appearance at the two ends of the board, to be carved by the host and hostess, are as extinct as the roast goose of the last century. In place of an elaborate display of corner dishes, some of them of an architectural character, we have ornaments and flowers. A manioc or programme of the dinner ought to be placed within reach of each guest. In the houses of the wealthy these are commonly printed, sometimes with great elegance. In small houses a white slate or porcelain slab supplies their place. But it is essential that the guest should know what he has to expect, and how to re- VARIETY OF FOOD. ii gulate his choice. Much is to be said (pace Mr. Walker) in defence of the variety of modern cookeiy. We are convinced that it is far more wholesome, as well as more agreeable, to partake of several dishes of a different composition, than to dine off a solid slice of beef or mutton, provided the golden rule be observed, never to eat too miich of any one of them. A very small portion of each dish is enough, and it is hardly necessary to add that no one but an alderman ever repeats his allowance and asks for a second helping. Une fois de chaqiie plat is said to be the maxim of a great French authority, and, provided the entrees and the entremets do not exceed two of each class, which is quite enough, we do not think it a bad one. A good deal of French cookery has now been introduced even into English middle-class households. We hope this little volume may tend to increase the use of it, for dishes cooked in the French fashion are generally light and digestible, equally good for the palate and the stomach. But it should be remembered that a well-cooked dish is complete in itself. Its character is destroyed by the peculiar British habit of accumulating vegetables, sauces, and miscellaneous additions upon the same plate to be eaten at the same time. The various parts of a dinner ought to be served in succession and not eaten together or promiscuously. In justice to the givers of the dinners and the cook, each guest should know what he is eating — always moderately, the more moderately the better — but not without discernment. The best result of a wellmanaged dinner is that the guests should rise from 12 IMPORTANCE OF AIR. it without lassitude, and with a slight remnant of appetite.

Cookery and housekeeping