These birds are said, in the current market report, to
have been caught, of late years, in the Jersey meadows.
They are properly in season in the early spring ; but, like
their kindred the reed-birds, they are often seen at different
seasons in different localities. Any of the recipes given for
reed-birds will serve for cooking ortolans : another is given
below. Like all buntings, ortolans have a delicate flesh of
delicious flavor, and when fat almost melt in the mouth.
As the flesh of ortolans bruises easily, they should be care-
fully handled. The best method of cooking them is broil-
ing, although any of the recipes given for cooking small
birds will answer for cooking ortolans.
BROILED ORTOLANS.
Rub with melted butter or salad-oil as many sheets of
white note-paper✪ Broiled Ortolans as there are birds, and cut them just large
enough to double over the birds, and turn in all around the
edges like a hem, as shown in the illustration of chops
broiled in paper, in order to preserve the fat and the trail
while the birds are being cooked.
Carefully pluck and singe the birds ; cut off the beaks and
claws, skin the heads and necks, wipe them with a clean
cloth, twist the feet, and lay the heads close to the sides of
the birds, and then enclose the birds in the oiled paper ; or,
instead of the sheets of paper, use the small paper cases
liOASTS {HOTIS). 353
made by the confectioners, after dipping them in oil. After
the birds are enclosed in the paper, or laid in the cases, put
them on a gridiron, over a very gentle fire, and broil them
for about five minutes, or until they swim in their own fat ;
then serve them at once in the papers, which are removed
upon the plate just before eating the birds.
Epicures take the birds by the legs, and bite them in
mouthfuls, beginning at the head. The bones are so small
and tender that they can be eaten. Some persons cut the
birds in quarters before eating, and do not eat the gizzards ;
the trail is always eaten.
FBIED BEED-BIRDS.^
Pluck and dress the birds, splitting them down the back ;
season them rather highly with salt and pepper ; roll them
in flour, Indian meal, or sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and
fry them brown in butter and lard equally mixed✪ Fried Reed-Birds, and made
smoking hot before the birds are put into it : or, dress them,
and split, season, and fry them without breading or flouring
them. They must be served very hot, as soon as they are
brown.
BROIUED BEED-BIBDS.
After dressing the reed-birds without splitting them, put
an oyster in each one, season them with salt and pepper✪ Beed-Birds,
and quickly broil them over a hot fire for about five minutes,
and serve them hot at once.
WOODCOCK ON TOAST.
After the birds are plucked, skin the heads, wash the bills
and feet, and cut off the claws ; twist the legs, and run the
bills through the sides of the birds as shown in the accom-
' When it is necessary to keep reed-birds hot after cooking them, they should be
placed in a covered tin pail set in boiling water; but, if possible, they should be served
as soon as they are cooked.
354 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY.
panying picture, and either roast or bake them. Put under
the birds, while they are being cooked, neatly cut slices of
bread to catch the drippings. When the woodcock are
Woodcock on Toast. ✪ Woodcock on Toast
Page 193 · 4 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
These birds are said, in the current market report, to have been caught, of late years, in the Jersey meadows. They are properly in season in the early spring ; but, like their kindred the reed-birds, they are often seen at different seasons in different localities. Any of the recipes given for reed-birds will serve for cooking ortolans : another is given below. Like all buntings, ortolans have a delicate flesh of delicious flavor, and when fat almost melt in the mouth. As the flesh of ortolans bruises easily, they should be carefully handled. The best method of cooking them is broiling, although any of the recipes given for cooking small birds will answer for cooking ortolans.
BROILED ORTOLANS.
Rub with melted butter or salad-oil as many sheets of white note-paper as there are birds, and cut them just large enough to double over the birds, and turn in all around the edges like a hem, as shown in the illustration of chops broiled in paper, in order to preserve the fat and the trail while the birds are being cooked.
Carefully pluck and singe the birds ; cut off the beaks and claws, skin the heads and necks, wipe them with a clean cloth, twist the feet, and lay the heads close to the sides of the birds, and then enclose the birds in the oiled paper ; or, instead of the sheets of paper, use the small paper cases
[illustration: ROASTS (rotis). 353]
made by the confectioners, after dipping them in oil. After the birds are enclosed in the paper, or laid in the cases, put them on a gridiron, over a very gentle fire, and broil them for about five minutes, or until they swim in their own fat ; then serve them at once in the papers, which are removed upon the plate just before eating the birds.
Epicures take the birds by the legs, and bite them in mouthfuls, beginning at the head. The bones are so small and tender that they can be eaten. Some persons cut the birds in quarters before eating, and do not eat the gizzards ; the trail is always eaten.
FRIED REED-BIRDS.^
Pluck and dress the birds, splitting them down the back ; season them rather highly with salt and pepper ; roll them in flour, Indian meal, or sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and fry them brown in butter and lard equally mixed, and made smoking hot before the birds are put into it : or, dress them, and split, season, and fry them without breading or flouring them. They must be served very hot, as soon as they are brown.
BROILED REED-BIRDS.
After dressing the reed-birds without splitting them, put an oyster in each one, season them with salt and pepper, and quickly broil them over a hot fire for about five minutes, and serve them hot at once.
WOODCOCK ON TOAST.
After the birds are plucked, skin the heads, wash the bills and feet, and cut off the claws ; twist the legs, and run the bills through the sides of the birds as shown in the accom-
' When it is necessary to keep reed-birds hot after cooking them, they should be placed in a covered tin pail set in boiling water; but, if possible, they should be served as soon as they are cooked.
panying picture, and either roast or bake them. Put under the birds, while they are being cooked, neatly cut slices of bread to catch the drippings. When the woodcock are
Woodcock on Toast.
Records on this page
Broiled OrtolansFried Reed-BirdsBeed-BirdsWoodcock on Toast