The fodder-stitch is of Southern origin, as are most of these
thread-stitches. It takes its name from the similarity in form to the
bundles of fodder, or dried corn blades that are tied about and used as
hay. The space between the strips is wider for this stitch, say half an
inch, and a single thread is used. Catch the thread very near to-
gether from side to side four times. This will give you eight threads
in all. From the upper or nearest side to you, carry the needle to the
centre of the threads and with a double button-hole-stitch drawn
tightly, fasten them together. Carry the needle to the lower side of
the work and make four threads more, and again secure them in the
centre. Try to keep the stitches straight and an even distance apart,
and secure just in the centre each time, so that the clusters shall not
look straggling.
The two-tie-stiich begins with the needle inserted on the bottom or
further side from you. Make two threads from side to side, secure
with double button-hole one-third from upper side ; pass the needle to
lower side, make two plain threads from side to side, secure one-third
from bottom or lower side ; pass needle through at the top, make two
plain threads, secure near top, and so on. This makes a kind of double
cluster with herring-bone effect between.
For the three-tie- stitch insert the
needle at the lower edge, make two
stitches across, fasten as in two-tie a.
third from upper, then a third from
lower edge ; insert needle again from
lower edge, make two long stitches
across, secure with double button-hole
in the centre ; carry needle again to
«■*. - . the bottom, make two long stitches,
Thkee-tie. . . , r , ,
secure these with unsecured upper
half of preceding cluster a third from top, then a third from bottom ;
make two more long stitches from side to side, secure in centre, with
centre of last cluster ; proceed in this way, alternating a centre fasten-
ing and double fastening. It forms a diamond centre and a cluster on
each side.
These stitches are really invaluable for children's wash-dresses, the
yokes of night-dresses, bottoms of drawers, etc. We have seen little
pieces of Hamburg work joined with the bits of tucking cut from the
arm-hole and neck of garments, inthree cornered cuff and collar points
with the most surprising nicety and economy. With a little patience
and practice one can secure very nearly a lace-work effect, and the
clustered threads give great strength and endurance.
DRAWN WORK.
681
DRAWN WORK.
We need again for our sampler a material in which the threads draw
easily. Let us take a piece of coarse crash, say one yard and three-quarters
long, and of width suitable for a buffet or bureau scarf. Leave at each
end nine inches for a fringe, the threads of which are not drawn or
knotted until after the strip is ornamented. This space can be marked
either with a bit of colored cotton or by drawing a couple of threads.
Again, above the fringe mark, leave a plain space an inch and a half.
Draw threads for two inches. Be careful never to cut the selvedge of
the strip, but with a pair of sharp pointed scissors clip the cross threads,
just inside, leaving a firm outer edge. Button-hole with the linen
thread this clipped place on each side of the strip. When the cross
threads are drawn, with a strong linen thread work as follows :
Drawn-work Bordi
Page 551
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The fodder-stitch is of Southern origin, as are most of these thread-stitches. It takes its name from the similarity in form to the bundles of fodder, or dried corn blades that are tied about and used as hay. The space between the strips is wider for this stitch, say half an inch, and a single thread is used. Catch the thread very near together from side to side four times. This will give you eight threads in all. From the upper or nearest side to you, carry the needle to the centre of the threads and with a double button-hole-stitch drawn tightly, fasten them together. Carry the needle to the lower side of the work and make four threads more, and again secure them in the centre. Try to keep the stitches straight and an even distance apart, and secure just in the centre each time, so that the clusters shall not look straggling.
The two-tie-stiich begins with the needle inserted on the bottom or further side from you. Make two threads from side to side, secure with double button-hole one-third from upper side ; pass the needle to lower side, make two plain threads from side to side, secure one-third from bottom or lower side ; pass needle through at the top, make two plain threads, secure near top, and so on. This makes a kind of double cluster with herring-bone effect between.
For the three-tie- stitch insert the needle at the lower edge, make two stitches across, fasten as in two-tie a. third from upper, then a third from lower edge ; insert needle again from lower edge, make two long stitches across, secure with double button-hole in the centre ; carry needle again to «■*. - . the bottom, make two long stitches,
Thkee-tie. . . , r , ,
secure these with the unsecured upper half of preceding cluster a third from top, then a third from bottom ; make two more long stitches from side to side, secure in centre, with centre of last cluster ; proceed in this way, alternating a centre fastening and double fastening. It forms a diamond centre and a cluster on each side.
These stitches are really invaluable for children's wash-dresses, the yokes of night-dresses, bottoms of drawers, etc. We have seen little pieces of Hamburg work joined with the bits of tucking cut from the arm-hole and neck of garments, inthree cornered cuff and collar points with the most surprising nicety and economy. With a little patience and practice one can secure very nearly a lace-work effect, and the clustered threads give great strength and endurance.
We need again for our sampler a material in which the threads draw easily. Let us take a piece of coarse crash, say one yard and three-quarters long, and of width suitable for a buffet or bureau scarf. Leave at each end nine inches for a fringe, the threads of which are not drawn or knotted until after the strip is ornamented. This space can be marked either with a bit of colored cotton or by drawing a couple of threads. Again, above the fringe mark, leave a plain space an inch and a half. Draw threads for two inches. Be careful never to cut the selvedge of the strip, but with a pair of sharp pointed scissors clip the cross threads, just inside, leaving a firm outer edge. Button-hole with the linen thread this clipped place on each side of the strip. When the cross threads are drawn, with a strong linen thread work as follows :
Drawn-work Bordi