Miss Parloa's kitchen companion

After it has been hung, venison is "improved" — that is, seasoned — by keeping it for several days in a marinade, which not only gives it a spicy flavor, but makes it tender. As a substitute for washing birds, where there is objection to washing, draw and wipe them carefully. Venison should only be wiped. In cooking game use common sense, and do as you are accustomed to do with beef and mutton. There can be no doubt that these meats have a better flavor and are more digestible when rare than when well done, but there are hosts of people who cannot eat any kind of meat when rare, and must have their game well done, if they have it at all. They cannot derive the same pleasure as those who cook it in the most approved way, yet it may be better to have game well cooked than to go entirely without it. Simplicity is perfection in the art of all cooking, and especially in cooking game, to which nothing should be added, either in the preparation or serving, that will disguise in the least the natural flavor of the meat. No one who can command a bright, hot fire, and be assured that the company will be in their places at the appointed hour, need fear to undertake the cooking of a game dinner. A few things are always to be borne in mind, — namely, to serve it hot ; to have the sauces so carefully chosen and made that the distinctive flavors of the game shall be brought out, and not impaired in the slightest degree; and to have the accompanying vegetables appropriate, delicate, and few. Nearly all small birds are served with their heads on. There is a difference in taste among epicures as to the drawing of birds. Many folk do not enjoy them if drawn, whereas others cannot eat them if undrawn. It seems as if in time the custom of eating entrails — a relic of barbarism — and serving the birds without first removing their heads would become obsolete. Game, on account of their almost constant activity, are not usually so fat as domestic animals and fowls ; therefore more care must be taken to protect the fat and juices, and venison, quail, grouse, and partridges are nearly always enriched by larding or by placing slices of fat pork or bacon over them. The fat and juices of a joint of venison are also sometimes kept in by a thick layer of flour paste. Ducks are so rich as to require no sauce, though orange and olive sauces often are served with them. Rabbits, squirrels, grouse, and venison are among the commonest and cheapest kinds of game ; and as there is but little waste in cooking them, they will average as low in cost as mutton and beef. Ducks always are expensive, whatever the price, because there is but little available meat. When it comes to choice ducks, only the rich can afford to buy them. Roast Leg of Venison. Use a leg of venison weighing about ten pounds, half a cupful of butter, half a pound of larding pork, some salt, pepper, and flour, and half a pint of port or claret, if liked.