The brim may be irregular in shape, although this style is more diffi-
cult to make than the perfectly round ones. Cut a circle of paper twice
the width of the brim desired, to allow for the
front and back, plus the diameter of the head-
size (Fig. i). Then fold the paper circle in
two, and measure on fold the width of brim
from both ends. The space in between is the
'""'^" head-size diameter; from it draw circle. If
^^^' * the hat is not to be perfectly round, trim it
narrower where desired, while the pattern is still folded. If brim is to fold
up on one side, the pattern must be made wide enough to allow for this.
After the pattern has been made, pin it on buckram and cut it out.
Draw the circle of the head-line, with a pencil, on the buckram ; then draw
a second circle three- fourths inch inside this, and cut around the smaller
circle.
MILLINERY IN THE HOME 21
From this small circle cut slashes in buckram, an
inch apart, to the circle of the head-size (Fig. 2).
This is to turn up into the inside of the crown.
If the brim is to be perfectly flat, wire the outer
edge, by cutting a wire a little longer than the dis-
tance aroiind outer edge of brim. Lap the ends in
the back and sew to edge, using a blanket stitch.
Make the stitches close together.
If brim is to be turned up, or made in mush-
room shape, crease plaits in edge of buckram ^^^' ^
brim. The greater the turn desired, the larger the plaits should be
made. Open up plaits and slit the edge along one crease of each plait.
Lap buckram edges slit, over each other, and sew firmly. Then wire
edge as before.
Next cut a strip of buckram for the side of crown, as wide as the
desired height of crown and as long as distance around head-size plus one
inch for lapping. Lap ends one inch and sew firmly. If the crown is to
be narrower at the top than at the bottom, as is usually the case, especially
with high-crowned hats, lap the ends more at the top than at the bottom.
A dart may also be taken in at the top of the front of the crown. Even
off the top edge of buckram and wire it. Sew wire to the edges at the
inside of the top and outside of the bottom, using the blanket stitch again.
Then sew it to the brim by placing the edges around inside of head-
size of brim, inside lower edge of crown, and sewing them flat to it firmly.
For top of crown, cut a piece of crinoline an inch wider than top of
crown and sew it on over the top, lapping the extra inch down over the
sides of crown. Sew it flat to sides. The frame is now ready to be
covered. '
LESSON III
MAKING A WIRE FRAME
Wire frames are used when the hats are to be covered with lace,
embroidery, or some thin transparent material. Wire frames may be
purchased ready made at small cost.
To make, measure head-size as before. Make a circle of wire this
size, lapping the wire in back and fastening ends together by wrapping
securely with finer wire.
Next cut four wires of equal lengths, as long as twice the brim, plus
the length of wire required to form a semi-circle over head, down as far
22
MILLINERY IN THE HOME
as head-size wire fits. Join these wires in center so that
the wires form equal angles. Fasten securely by wrapping
with finer wire and pinching together with the flat end of
wire cutters.
Page 12
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The brim may be irregular in shape, although this style is more difficult to make than the perfectly round ones. Cut a circle of paper twice
the width of the brim desired, to allow for the front and back, plus the diameter of the headsize (Fig. i). Then fold the paper circle in two, and measure on fold tthe width of brim from both ends. The space in between is the head-size diameter; from it draw circle. If
^^^' * the hat is not to be perfectly round, trim it
narrower where desired, while the pattern is still folded. If brim is to fold up on one side, the pattern must be made wide enough to allow for this. After the pattern has been made, pin it on buckram and cut it out. Draw the circle of the head-line, with a pencil, on the buckram ; then draw a second circle three- fourths inch inside this, and cut around the smaller circle.
From this small circle cut slashes in buckram, an inch apart, to the circle of the head-size (Fig. 2). This is to turn up into the inside of the crown. If the brim is to be perfectly flat, wire the outer edge, by cutting a wire a little longer than the distance around outer edge of brim. Lap the ends in the back and sew to edge, using a blanket stitch. Make the stitches close together.
If brim is to be turned up, or made in mushroom shape, crease plaits in edge of buckram ^^^' ^ brim. The greater the turn desired, the larger the plaits should be made. Open up plaits and slit the edge along one crease of each plait. Lap buckram edges slit, over each other, and sew firmly. Then wire edge as before.
Next cut a strip of buckram for the side of crown, as wide as the desired height of crown and as long as distance around head-size plus one inch for lapping. Lap ends one inch and sew firmly. If the crown is to be narrower at the top than at the bottom, as is usually the case, especially with high-crowned hats, lap the ends more at the top than at the bottom. A dart may also be taken in at the top of the front of the crown. Even off the top edge of buckram and wire it. Sew wire to the edges at the inside of the top and outside of the bottom, using the blanket stitch again.
Then sew it to the brim by placing the edges around inside of headsize of brim, inside lower edge of crown, and sewing them flat to it firmly.
For top of crown, cut a piece of crinoline an inch wider than top of crown and sew it on over the top, lapping the extra inch down over the sides of crown. Sew it flat to sides. The frame is now ready to be covered. '
MAKING A WIRE FRAME
Wire frames are used when the hats are to be covered with lace, embroidery, or some thin transparent material. Wire frames may be purchased ready made at small cost.
To make, measure head-size as before. Make a circle of wire this size, lapping the wire in back and fastening ends together by wrapping securely with finer wire.
Next cut four wires of equal lengths, as long as twice the brim, plus the length of wire required to form a semi-circle over head, down as far
as head-size wire fits. Join these wires in center so that the wires form equal angles. Fasten securely by wrapping with finer wire and pinching together with the flat end of wire cutters.