The flat-felled seam is made*by
joining the material with the edges
coming on the wrong side. Then
trim one edge of seam quite close to
stitching, and cover it by folding the
other edge of seam over it, turning
in raw edge and basting it flat to
the material. This seam is used on
undergarments which touch the
body.
The French- felled seam is made
by joining the two edges to finish on
wrong side. Trim off one edge and
fold the other edge over it, turning
in a small hem. Instead of sewing
it flat to material, double it over the
trimmed edge, forming a fold, and stitch it at the same place where the first
stitching was made. This seam is often used in joining embroidery to cloth,
or in collars and cuffs to make them strong.
FRENCH- FELLED SEAM
LESSON VI
PLACKETS
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
For petticoat. Cut a strip of material two times the desired length
of placket, and three and a half inches wide. Sew one long side of this
to the right side of the edge of opening, on both edges. Then fold the
16
HOME DRESSMAKING
strip of cloth over, so as to cover the raw edges, and, turning in a nar-
row hem, sew along the same lines as the other edge was sewed.
When finished, one side of the placket extends straight out from
material to form the underlap, and the other is turned under even with
the line of the back seam of the skirt. The set-on strip is entirely hidden
when the placket is finished.
For sleeves of tailored waists, and plackets of drawers. Cut placket
into material the desired depth of placket. Cut a strip of material twice
the length of placket and one and a half inches wide. Turn in a quarter
of an inch along both long edges. With the raw edges turned in, stitch the
strip on the right side of the underneath and on the wrong side of the top
piece. Finish the placket by setting a strip of the material on top wide
enough to cover previous stitching. Make the bottom of the piece pointed,
turning in all raw edges.
Another underwear placket. If there is no seam, cut opening the
desired length. Cut a strip of material two times the length of the placket
and three and a half
inches wide. Fold the
two ends together and
press a crease in the
center. Then fold it
in two lengthwise and
crease ( Fig. 3A) . Open, and cut out one quar-
ter shown by creases, leaving a small edge to
fold under. Baste the long edge of this piece
to both edges of the placket. Turn the wide
part back, folding in
the raw edge so that
it just covers the first
stitching. Then turn
back the narrow strip
left and stitch it down
^^■iti^?t^M'}W^%^^i^/t<^)-^-MMW-^^^^
'tii^>;r^•h^fw■t^'\^■^^•(!:^^^^\t !, .
FIG. 3A
to garment to form a
FIG. 3B
FIG. 4
facing. The wider piece
forms the under lap.
Then turn back the end of the under lap, baste,
and stitch across on the outside (Fig. 3B).
Gusset placket. Used on bottoms of men's shirts where no lapping is
necessary. Cut placket desired length. Sew a strip of material on wrong
side of opening along both edges, bringing it to a point at the lower edge.
HOME DRESSMAKING
17
LESSON VII
USE OF COMMERCIAL PATTERNS
Page 9
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The flat-felled seam is made*by joining the material with the edges coming on the wrong side. Then trim one edge of seam quite close to stitching, and cover it by folding the other edge of seam over it, turning in raw edge and basting it flat to the material. This seam is used on undergarments which touch the body.
The French- felled seam is made by joining the two edges to finish on wrong side. Trim off one edge and fold the other edge over it, turning in a small hem. Instead of sewing it flat to material, double it over the trimmed edge, forming a fold, and stitch it at the same place where the first stitching was made. This seam is often used in joining embroidery to cloth, or in collars and cuffs to make them strong.
FRENCH- FELLED SEAM
PLACKETS
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
For petticoat. Cut a strip of material two times the desired length of placket, and three and a half inches wide. Sew one long side of this to the right side of the edge of opening, on both edges. Then fold the
strip of cloth over, so as to cover the raw edges, and, turning in a narrow hem, sew along the same lines as the other edge was sewed.
When finished, one side of the placket extends straight out from material to form the underlap, and the other is turned under even with the line of the back seam of the skirt. The set-on strip is entirely hidden when the placket is finished.
For sleeves of tailored waists, and plackets of drawers. Cut placket into material the desired depth of placket. Cut a strip of material twice the length of placket and one and a half inches wide. Turn in a quarter of an inch along both long edges. With the raw edges turned in, stitch the strip on the right side of the underneath and on the wrong side of the top piece. Finish the placket by setting a strip of the material on top wide enough to cover previous stitching. Make the bottom of the piece pointed, turning in all raw edges.
Another underwear placket. If there is no seam, cut opening the desired length. Cut a strip of material two times the length of the placket
and three and a half inches wide. Fold the two ends together and press a crease in the center. Then fold it in two lengthwise and crease ( Fig. 3A) . Open, and cut out one quarter shown by creases, leaving a small edge to fold under. Baste the long edge of this piece to both edges of the placket. Turn the wide
part back, folding in the raw edge so that it just covers the first stitching. Then turn back the narrow strip left and stitch it down
', .
FIG. 3A
to garment to form a
FIG. 3B
FIG. 4
facing. The wider piece
forms the under lap.
Then turn back the end of the under lap, baste, and stitch across on the outside (Fig. 3B).
Gusset placket. Used on bottoms of men's shirts where no lapping is necessary. Cut placket desired length. Sew a strip of material on wrong side of opening along both edges, bringing it to a point at the lower edge.
USE OF COMMERCIAL PATTERNS