The new practical housekeeping

As there is not any other vegetable so much used as the potato, •specially in winter and early spring, the housekeeper should have a variety of recipes from which to select the daily bill of fare ; and should also be wise in the art of cooking ''only a potato ;" this little saying conveying the abuse to which this vegetable is subjected* Potatoes are composed largely of starch, and cooking bursts the cells and sets the starch free, and at this stage a boiled or baked potato should be served, as it will then be dry and mealy ; but if allowed to cook longer, the starch absorbs the moisture and a soggy, flavorless potato results ; another secret of having potatoes mealy and palatable is to cook them rapidly, and it is important to begin to cook them at the right time and have them as near the same size as possible in order to serve when just done. In latter part of winter potatoes are so watery that it is much better to steam them, and always, when to be mashed or used for made-dishes, peeling and steaming is preferable, using great care in the paring, as the best part of the potato lies next to the skin and for this reason in boiling potatoes, it is better to wash with a little brush, or a swab made by wrapping a cloth around a stick, as great care must be taken to have them perfectly clean, then cook, peel and serve ; or serve in their jackets, which is preferred by many. The only exception to thus cooking, is in the late spring, for the skin of an old potato contains a narcotic property which gives a disagreeable flavor if not peeled before cooking. But however cooked, potatoes must be served hot. When intended to be mashed or used in made-dishes, if boiled, pare and cook without salt as it greatly impairs their flavor; the seasoning being added afterwards. AAlways pare potatoes left from a meal at once, as they pare so much easier when warm, causing no waste ; except baked ones, which do not pare tiU cold ; but do not slice for use until wanted. One must exercise care in not cooking too many potatoes every day, thus requiring the same time in preparing the residue in some edible form, as would be consumed in preparing some more desirable dish from fresh ones, the cost also of preparing them being more than of the latter, owing to the additions required to make them palatable. When recipes call for cream, milk slightly thickened, and a little butter can be used ; and in cooking with either, a custard kettle avoids all danger of scorching. Old potatoes, may be greatly improved by being soaked in cold water several hours after peeling, putting in immediately as exposure to air darkens, being particular to change the water once or twice, and wipe dry with a towel before putting on to boil. This freshens them and makes them crimper, although some claim they really become more tasteless. New ripe potatoes, are best baked; full grown, ripe ones may be either boiled or baked; medium-sized smooth ones are best to use, the kind varying with the season. When cooking in water, use soft water, filtered, or if hard add small pinch soda and have it either cold or boiling, never tepid; for fuller directions see Boiled Potatoes. Although some prefer a "bone" in potatoes, to be wholesome they should be thoroughly cooked whether baked, boiled, fried or steamed.