dissolying ; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as ^he parts faxthest from the surface always acquire thcU de- gree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it, for this reason the meat is better cut in small pieces. The meat must be fresh cbs possible ^the same as for soup) to obtain finest flavored stock, and should oe cooked from three to eight hours ; the shorter time making a Liquid Stock the latter a Jelbi^ Stock, Cook very slowly, lettmg it heat gradually as the 8oa£ng of the meat in the cold water while it is being heated ex- tracts the juice better and the latter mingles more perfectly and so gives a finer flavor, and for that reason, letting the meat stand an our or so in the kettle of water before placing it on stove is recom- mended by some^ The proportion of salt used in making stock is about one tablespoon, not more, to a gallon of water, being used for the purpose of separating the blooa and slime from the meat ; the latter will rise just as boiling commences, in the form of scum and should be removed immediately as the agitation of the water breaks it, and it will mingle speedily with the stock and make the latter cloudy ; a dash of cold water added to kettle just as stock boils will assist the scum to ri^e, skim often, set back and let stock boil gently on one side or in one place, and not all over ; "the pot should smile, not laugh," is a trite but true saying as rapid boihng hardens the fibre of the meat and the savory flavor escapes with the steam ; the simmering also assists in clarif^ring and if gently cooked, stock will often be quite clear after straining. ^ As regards time or cooking^ if prepared and made as above the juices^ etc.^ will be well extracted in two or three hours and the flavor is injured by too much cooking. If a Jelly Stock is wished cook the seven or nine hours. When any stock is done, strain carefully through a clean towel folded several times, and laid in a colander set over a stone crock or jar; never allow it to stand and cool in pot in which it was cooked, but always strain in the crock as directed. Do not squeeze towel through which it is strained — simply let the stock run through it, and let cool without covering, except with a sieve or cheese cloth cover — if it were covered with a plate, or any other covering which would confine the steam, it would be injured, be- cause the steam condensing upon inside of cover would fall back into it, and, in warm weather, tnis might cause it to sour. Let it cool quickly as the sooner it is cold the Arier ths flavor and the longer it will keep. In cold weather it may be kept a week but in smnmer it will need thorough scalding every other day probably ; letting it boil a few moments, not simply warming it, as that onty causes it to sour more quicklv. Before stock is first cooled some add salt till nicely seasonea, thinking it aids in the preserva- tion of the stock. After it has cooled, letting it stand ovemi^t is soTire, 591

AI-modernized reading of the original text

dissolving ; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as ^he parts faxthest from the surface always acquire thcU degree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it, for this reason the meat is better cut in small pieces. The meat must be fresh as possible ^the same as for soup) to obtain finest flavored stock, and should be cooked from three to eight hours ; the shorter time making a Liquid Stock the latter a Jelly Stock, Cook very slowly, letting it heat gradually as the soaking of the meat in the cold water while it is being heated extracts the juice better and the latter mingles more perfectly and so gives a finer flavor, and for that reason, letting the meat stand an our or so in the kettle of water before placing it on stove is recommended by some^ The proportion of salt used in making stock is about one tablespoon, not more, to a gallon of water, being used for the purpose of separating the blooa and slime from the meat ; the latter will rise just as boiling commences, in the form of scum and should be removed immediately as the agitation of the water breaks it, and it will mingle speedily with the stock and make the latter cloudy ; a dash of cold water added to kettle just as stock boils will assist the scum to rise, skim often, set back and let stock boil gently on one side or in one place, and not all over ; "the pot should smile, not laugh," is a trite but true saying as rapid boiling hardens the fibre of the meat and the savory flavor escapes with the steam ; the simmering also assists in clarifying and if gently cooked, stock will often be quite clear after straining. ^ As regards time of cooking, if prepared and made as above the juices, etc., will be well extracted in two or three hours and the flavor is injured by too much cooking. If a Jelly Stock is wished cook the seven or nine hours. When any stock is done, strain carefully through a clean towel folded several times, and laid in a colander set over a stone crock or jar; never allow it to stand and cool in pot in which it was cooked, but always strain in the crock as directed. Do not squeeze towel through which it is strained — simply let the stock run through it, and let cool without covering, except with a sieve or cheese cloth cover — if it were covered with a plate, or any other covering which would confine the steam, it would be injured, because the steam condensing upon inside of cover would fall back into it, and, in warm weather, this might cause it to sour. Let it cool quickly as the sooner it is cold the finer the flavor and the longer it will keep. In cold weather it may be kept a week but in summer it will need thorough scalding every other day probably ; letting it boil a few moments, not simply warming it, as that onty causes it to sour more quicklv. Before stock is first cooled some add salt till nicely seasonea, thinking it aids in the preservation of the stock. After it has cooled, letting it stand overnight is soTire, 591

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