The Pattern cook-book

gundi," on account of the mixture of spices used. Clean the mackerel, and, having soaked it over night in cold water with the inside down, drain, and boil slowly until tender in fresh water. Then lift the fish out, drain well, and place it in a rather deep dish. It is best to cut the fish into four pieces after it is cooked, as it can thus be more easily managed. For a mackerel weighing one pound make the following pickle and pour it over the fish boiling hot. Allow One pint of vinegar. Two bay-leaves. One table-spoonful of prepared spices. One tea-spoonful of whole mustard. One tea-spoonful of salt. One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. One slice of onion. Place the spices in the vinegar on the fire, cover tightly and let them steep slowly for an hour, to draw out the flavors. Strain, and pour the liquid over the fish, covering it while the vinegar steams. The fish will be ready to serve in a day. The prepared spices, which may be procured at any grocer's, consist of a mixture of cloves, allspice, cinnamon and mustard. SHELL-FISH. OYSTERS. The breeding season for oysters begins about the first of May, at which time they become soft and milky and do not return to their firm condition again until the weather is cold. Canned oysters, however, are good at any time and are often a blessing to the invalid on this account, since they may always be relied upon to furnish a tempting dish. Oysters are differently sold in different places, some dealers selling by measure only, while others sell both by measure and count. When they are sold by the dozen, they are generally divided into several grades. "Counts" are the largest and are suitable for frying, broiling, etc. ; they are, of course, the most expensive kind. " Selects " rank next to " counts " and in some markets are called " culls." " Straights " are oysters taken as they come, the large with the small. Oysters are very dainty food and require careful handling. The seasoning used should be of the most delicate kind, and the oysters should never be cooked after they have become plump and the edges curl. Too much cooking makes them hard and indigestible and ruins their flavor entirely. OYSTERS, RAW. Raw oysters are served either on the half-shell, on oyster plates or in a block of ice. Allow to each person five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon, and also pass thin slices of delicately buttered brown or graham bread. Little neck clams take the place of oysters during the hot weather and are similarly served. OYSTERS ON ICE. There is a very attractive way of serving raw oysters. Select a rectangular piece of clear ice, with smooth, regular surfaces. With a hot brick or flat-iron melt a cavity in the ice large enough to hold the oysters. Pour out the water from the melted ice, wash out the cavity and dry it, FISH. 117 and put in the oysters, which should be well drained in a colander. Place a thick napkin on a platter, set the ice upon this, and garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. A bed of smilax or parsley is sometimes made about and upon the napkin to conceal it, the lemon being placed on this green bed. The ice is often chipped roughly to resemble a rock. OYSTER SOUP. This will be found among the soups. OYSTERS, FRIED.