Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

It sounds very fine, no doubt, to place one's self above these lower considerations of material existence, to profess indifference as to the tenderness of a joint, or the savouriness of hashes and stews, and to declare that, so long as one has enough to stop the animal HIGH-CLASS AND DOMESTIC COOKERY 67 craving for nourislament, it is of little importance whether the food be dressed in an appetising manner or not. Cooking, in the vocabulary of six women out of eight, means waste, inefficiency, and discomfort ; many may think this exaggeration, but such is not the case, as we shall see when we consider how much is spent on food, how much is wasted by inefficient management, and how much of that might be saved by proper management. Among the many important reasons for and advantages of good cooking there are three essential ones : first, it prevents waste ; second, it is necessary for health ; last, but by no means of the least importance, it has much effect upon the temper and actions of weak mortals. Proper knowledge of the functions of food and their respective preparations of cooking would save many pounds a year ; it would provide better comfort, better houses, and higher education. It is distressing to note in the homes of the poor, and even in some of the houses of the middle classes, how excessive are the ignorance and the wastefulness in cooking. Luxury is common among all classes, and very often more so than is needed. But it is not luxury I wish to advocate ; indeed, most of those who can afford to keep up an expensive table generally secure the service of first-rate cooks who are well acquainted with the rudiments and true secrets of cookery ; there should, however, be a method for the cooking of every-day life between the luxurious display of delicacies daintily prepared by skilful man-cooks, and the badly cooked 68 PBACTICAL GASTRONOMY and unpalatable dishes with which the lower and middle classes have to be content. It is but a right and reasonable ambition for any young woman to desire to make herself a mistress of the art of cooking. It is not essential that, because she is proficient in it, she is to devote her time to cooking meals. It is far more conducive, indeed, to domestic comfort for the mistress to take no practical part in making the dishes, yet she ought to know how they are prepared, if she is to direct. A word or two of criticism to the cook, a hint as to some improvement, will show the cook that her mistress is efficient in the art, and she cannot afford to ignore her remarks ; such will be the results when a practical and thorough knowledge in the management has been obtained. Those who understand the necessity of good cooking recognise one of the natural but at the same time most important require- ments of home comfort. It should not be for their own sake that they make it a point of study, for often women care little about the pleasures of the table. It is for the sake of their husbands, sons, or brothers, whose comfort depends upon her good management. Sensible women will not think it prudent to look with disdain on the masculine inclination for good fare ; for such weakness they will readily overcome.