Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

greasiness, is a rare exception and not the rule in ordi- nary kitchens. The principle on which success depends is that at the moment of contact with the almost boiling fat a thin film over every part of the surface of the fish or other obj ect to be fried is coagulated, so that the juices with their flavours &c. are at once locked up within, and no quality can escape. The frying fat should, therefore, be in sufficient quantity, and also hot enough, to efiect this result in an instant, after which, and dur- ing the few minutes required to cook the interior, the heat may be slightly lowered with advantage." Notes on Braising. Braising is a kind of improved stewing process, which the before -mentioned authority thinks we very unwisely neglect. " In braising," he says, "the meat is just covered with a strong liquor of vegetable and animal juices (braise or mirepoix) in a closely covered vessel, from which as little evaporation as possible is permitted, and is exposed for a considerable time to a surrounding heat just short of boiling." By this treatment tough, fibrous flesh, whether of poultry 80 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY or of cattle, or meat unduly fresh, such as can alone be procured during the summer season in towns, is made tender, and is furthermore impregnated with the odours and flavour of fresh vegetables and sweet herbs, while the liquor itself, slowly reduced in the process, furnishes the most appropriate, fragrant, and delicious sauce with which to surround the portion when served at table. Thus, also, meats which are dry and of little flavour, such as veal, become saturated with juices, which render the food succulent and delicious. Spices and wine are sometimes used to impart their flavours. The process of cooking a braise is thus spoken of by Jules Gouffe in his "Livre de Cuisine." The chief operation is one of slow simmering, for, he says, if the meat be exposed to sudden heat the gravy is insipid, colourless, and weak, as it too often is in such preparations by careless or ignorant cooks. The gravy should be highly nutritious, of a rich high colour and flavour, and of gelatinous con- sistency. "I advise," he says, "that for braising the quantity of meat should be large rather than small, as a long process of cooking s most effective, and you at once obtain two admirable dishes instead of one, for when the braise is cold it is equally good, and affords a pleasant change." 81 Notes on Broiling and Grilling. This is a process in general favour with both cooks and physicians, as it retains in the meat the more nutritious qualities and flavour, their evaporation and exhalation being prevented by the sudden closing to- gether of the fibres, or, in other words, the hardening and bro^vning of the surface. The gridiron, kept always in a perfectly clean condition, should be made hot and previously rubbed with a piece of clean fat to prevent scorching, and thereby disfiguring the appearance of the food ; and the fire, where coal or coke is used, should be clear and bright. The great art lies in suiting the time of cooking and the number of turns to the size, thickness, and general character of the meat you have to broil — a beefsteak, for instance, requiring more frequent turning than a mutton chop, and a pork chop requiring a longer time for its broiling than a steak.