FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 343

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Hand-painted menus on paper, parchment, and satin are in great favour in all Society circles. Some of the newest have a miniature of the host or hostess painted in the centre, and are occasionally the work of noted artists. MENUS AND THEIR COMPILATION 707 In England, America, and France mncli art and luxury have been lavished on menu cards. Parchment of the Middle Ages competes with Japanese rice-paper. Some menus, with their seals and ribbons, are like a charter of nobility, whilst others are in the form of beautiful miniature fans. For some time there has been a reaction against extravagant luxury, which is being replaced by a sim- plicity not less excessive. Sometimes the names of the dishes are written by hand on thick paper, without any ornamentation. As usual, the best kind are between these excesses of ostentation and severity. Menus of out-of-the-way and awkward shapes are at all times to be avoided, because they encumber the table and are difficult to consult. Without microscopical print, they should be suffi- ciently small to be readable without remark, and not add to the embarrassment caused by a succession of glasses and other articles on the table. The menu card is a simple accessory, and should be treated as such. This rule ought to be taken into consideration when ordering the shapes and sizes. When a menu card has too much prominence given at the table, we run the risk of it being said that " the dinner on the paper is better than that on the plates." Among the many points that a cook has to study in order to be perfect in his profession, the composition of a menu is undoubtedly one of the most important. The number of guests for which a meal is to be provided must first of all be taken into considera- tion ; then the style — that is to say, whether it is to be an expensive or plain luncheon, dinner, or supper that is required, for the menus are generally compiled according to the means and positions of the guests. 708 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY The bills of fare vary according to the seasons of the year, and are made up as a rule vdth dishes appropriate to the times ; there are also certain rules and regula- tions which must at all times be strictly observed. In compiling a menu it is necessary to study the variety of dishes, and their selection, for each dish should vary by its colour and taste from those served before or after. The character of dishes must be retained throughout ; sauces should correspond in taste and colour with the viands with which they are intended to be served. If there are two soups quoted on a menu, one ought to be clear and the other thick ; should the thick soup be a puree of vegetables, the clear soup must contain no vegetable roots as garnishing. When two or more fish are to be served, the first, as a rule, is boiled, and generally a large fish, such as turbot, salmon, cod, &c. ; the next one would be a small fish, either fi-ied or broiled. Whitebait are often served as a third fish. The entrees should always be so classified that light dishes, such as rissoles, bouchees, croquettes, quenelles, kromeskis, &c., are served first of all. If there are two removes, poultry is served before the butcher's meat. The cardinal point is to have all dressed removes served before the plain roasted ones.