FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 385

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Be careful always to cut down straight to the bone, by which method you never spoil the joint, and help many persons with little meat ; what remains looks well, and is good to eat. In carving a leg of mutton, slice it lightly, else, if you press too heavily, the knife will not cut, you will squeeze out all the gravy, and serve your guests with dry meat. Eustache Ude considers a saddle of mutton is usually carved contrary to taste and judgment. " To have the meat in the grain, pass your knife straight to one side of the chine, as close as possible to the bone ; then turn the knife straight from you, and cut the first slice out, and cut slices lean and fat. By disengaging the slices from the bone in this manner, it will have a better appearance, and you will be able to assist more guests." If you begin to carve a joint in the middle, the gravy will run out on both sides, and the meat shrink and become dry, and be no more presentable Never pour gravy over white meat, as the latter should retain its colour. Of roasted fowl, the breast is the best part ; in boiled fowl, the leg is preferable. The shoulder of a rabbit is very delicate ; and the brain is a tit-bit for a lady. In helping roast pheasant or fowl, add some of the cresses with which it is garnished. The most elegant mode of helping hare is in fillets, so as not to give a bone, which would be a breach of good manners. 836 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY Before cutting tip a wild duck, slice the breast, and ponr over the gashes a few spoonfuls of sauce, composed of port wine or claret (warmed), lemon-juice, salt, and cayenne pepper. The most delicate parts of a calf's head are the bits under the ears, next the eyes, and the side next the cheek. If cray-fish be added to a fricasseed chicken (as in France), one of the fish should be placed on the top, in dishing, and served to the first guest. TRANSLATING THE MENU. Erastus Gurley, a noted wag, one day dropped into a cafe for dinner. The obsequious waiter bad just flicked a bit of lint from his customer's coat collar when Mr. Gurley opened out on him. " Yes," he said, glancing at the menu, " you may bring me some eggs blushing like Aurora." "Beg pardon, sir," explamed the waiter, "it's not on the bill." " Isn't, eh ? What's this, ceufs a Vaurore ? " " Oh, yes," replied the young man, blushing and shifting somewhat uneasily. " And I feel like having some breeches in the royal fashion, with velvet sauce." The waiter turned red, white, and blue. " Got you again," chuckled Mr. Gurley. " Well, I suppose you call it culottes a la royale, sauce veUnite.^^ '* Oh, that I Yes, sir ; yes, sir ; " and the waiter briskly rattled the cutlery around the plate as though he would fain drown Mr. Gurley's voice. " Be sure you bring a stew of good Christians." *' Now you are joking," mildly expostulated the waiter, with a sickly smile. " Not a bit of it, man. See here on your bill. Compote de bons Chretiens" " O — ah — ugh," gulped the waiter. " And a mouthful of ladies." " Eh ? " " BoucMe de dames — quick, help — a glass of water — dash it in his face ! " But Mr. Gurley was too late. The waiter was in a dead swoon, from which he never recovered until later in the afternoon. WINES 837 WINES. ORDER OF THE SERVING OF WINES.