FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 396

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
the greatness, of the achievements, and of the reflections of Careme " — the possession of him was as eagerly contested by the rich as that of a nymph by the satyrs. " He was alternately the glory of Talleyrand, the boast of Lavalette, and the pride of the ISaxon ambassador. In their houses, too, his hand was as often on his pen as on the handle of his casserole ; and inspira- tion never visited his brain without the call being duly registered "in his note-book, with reflections thereon highly philosophical and gastronomic." But Careme appears to have been of a rather capricious nature, and passed from kitchen to kitchen as the bee wings from flov/er to flower, and possibly also equally in quest of " hone3^" The Emperor Alexander dined with Talleyrand, and forthwith he seduced Careme ; the seduction money was £100 a month, and all culinary expenses. But Careme did not yield without a little exhibition of coyness. " He urged his love for study, his desire to refine the race (of chefs') of which he made himself the model, his love for his country," and, possibly, a lively recollec- tion of the sufferings of Laguipi^re in Kussia. Whilst the Emperor was baiting his hook to catch Careme, that gentleman started off to Vienna with Lord Stewart, taking care, however, to leave a trail by which he could be followed. Count OrlofE was soon set off upon his track, and, after following the artful worthy to London and Paris, persuaded him at last to do the Emperor Alexander the honour of taking the head of the Imperial kitchen. But he did not stop in Russia very long, for his book of expenses was subject to supervision, which gave him great offence, and he flung up his appointment in disgust. Careme repaired to France, and entered the service of the Princess Bagration, and served the table of that whimsical lady to such good effect that she dubbed him, before her gratified friends, as " The Pearl of Cooks " ('* La Perle des Cuisiniers "). This princess ate herself into a permanent indigestion, and Careme then transferred his attachment to the English ambas- sador at the court of Vienna. " There, every morning, seated in his magnificent kitchen, Careme received the visit of ' Milor Stewart,' who seldom left him without presents and encourage- ments. Indeed, these rained upon the immortal artist. The Emperor Alexander had consented to have Careme's projects in culinary architecture dedicated to him, and, with notice of consent, sent him a diamond ring, which Prince Walkonski placed on his finger." Two years before George IV. came to the throne, Careme was for a short time a member of the Piegent's household. He left Vienna to be present at the coronation, but arrived too late, and he docs not scruple to say, very ungenerously, that the banquet was spoiled for want of his presence, nor to insinuate that the 854 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY