the greatness, of the achievements, and of the reflections of
Careme " — the possession of him was as eagerly contested by
the rich as that of a nymph by the satyrs. " He was alternately
the glory of Talleyrand, the boast of Lavalette, and the pride of
the ISaxon ambassador. In their houses, too, his hand was as
often on his pen as on the handle of his casserole ; and inspira-
tion never visited his brain without the call being duly registered
"in his note-book, with reflections thereon highly philosophical
and gastronomic."
But Careme appears to have been of a rather capricious
nature, and passed from kitchen to kitchen as the bee wings from
flov/er to flower, and possibly also equally in quest of " hone3^"
The Emperor Alexander dined with Talleyrand, and forthwith
he seduced Careme ; the seduction money was £100 a month,
and all culinary expenses. But Careme did not yield without a
little exhibition of coyness. " He urged his love for study, his
desire to refine the race (of chefs') of which he made himself the
model, his love for his country," and, possibly, a lively recollec-
tion of the sufferings of Laguipi^re in Kussia. Whilst the
Emperor was baiting his hook to catch Careme, that gentleman
started off to Vienna with Lord Stewart, taking care, however, to
leave a trail by which he could be followed. Count OrlofE was
soon set off upon his track, and, after following the artful worthy
to London and Paris, persuaded him at last to do the Emperor
Alexander the honour of taking the head of the Imperial
kitchen.
But he did not stop in Russia very long, for his book of
expenses was subject to supervision, which gave him great
offence, and he flung up his appointment in disgust. Careme
repaired to France, and entered the service of the Princess
Bagration, and served the table of that whimsical lady to such
good effect that she dubbed him, before her gratified friends, as
" The Pearl of Cooks " ('* La Perle des Cuisiniers ").
This princess ate herself into a permanent indigestion, and
Careme then transferred his attachment to the English ambas-
sador at the court of Vienna. " There, every morning, seated in
his magnificent kitchen, Careme received the visit of ' Milor
Stewart,' who seldom left him without presents and encourage-
ments. Indeed, these rained upon the immortal artist. The
Emperor Alexander had consented to have Careme's projects in
culinary architecture dedicated to him, and, with notice of
consent, sent him a diamond ring, which Prince Walkonski
placed on his finger."
Two years before George IV. came to the throne, Careme was
for a short time a member of the Piegent's household. He left
Vienna to be present at the coronation, but arrived too late, and
he docs not scruple to say, very ungenerously, that the banquet
was spoiled for want of his presence, nor to insinuate that the
854 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Page 396
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the greatness, of the achievements, and of the reflections of
Careme " — the possession of him was as eagerly contested by
the rich as that of a nymph by the satyrs. " He was alternately
the glory of Talleyrand, the boast of Lavalette, and the pride of
the ISaxon ambassador. In their houses, too, his hand was as
often on his pen as on the handle of his casserole ; and inspira-
tion never visited his brain without the call being duly registered
"in his note-book, with reflections thereon highly philosophical
and gastronomic."
But Careme appears to have been of a rather capricious
nature, and passed from kitchen to kitchen as the bee wings from
flov/er to flower, and possibly also equally in quest of " hone3^"
The Emperor Alexander dined with Talleyrand, and forthwith
he seduced Careme ; the seduction money was £100 a month,
and all culinary expenses. But Careme did not yield without a
little exhibition of coyness. " He urged his love for study, his
desire to refine the race (of chefs') of which he made himself the
model, his love for his country," and, possibly, a lively recollec-
tion of the sufferings of Laguipi^re in Kussia. Whilst the
Emperor was baiting his hook to catch Careme, that gentleman
started off to Vienna with Lord Stewart, taking care, however, to
leave a trail by which he could be followed. Count OrlofE was
soon set off upon his track, and, after following the artful worthy
to London and Paris, persuaded him at last to do the Emperor
Alexander the honour of taking the head of the Imperial
kitchen.
But he did not stop in Russia very long, for his book of
expenses was subject to supervision, which gave him great
offence, and he flung up his appointment in disgust. Careme
repaired to France, and entered the service of the Princess
Bagration, and served the table of that whimsical lady to such
good effect that she dubbed him, before her gratified friends, as
" The Pearl of Cooks " ('* La Perle des Cuisiniers ").
This princess ate herself into a permanent indigestion, and
Careme then transferred his attachment to the English ambas-
sador at the court of Vienna. " There, every morning, seated in
his magnificent kitchen, Careme received the visit of ' Milor
Stewart,' who seldom left him without presents and encourage-
ments. Indeed, these rained upon the immortal artist. The
Emperor Alexander had consented to have Careme's projects in
culinary architecture dedicated to him, and, with notice of
consent, sent him a diamond ring, which Prince Walkonski
placed on his finger."
Two years before George IV. came to the throne, Careme was
for a short time a member of the Piegent's household. He left
Vienna to be present at the coronation, but arrived too late, and
he docs not scruple to say, very ungenerously, that the banquet
was spoiled for want of his presence, nor to insinuate that the
854 PEACTICAL GASTRONOMY