FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 409

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
There was a universal prejudice against it in this tolerant country until Parmentier, the gardener of Louis XVI., got that king to admit it to the royal table. As this happened in a year of famine, the potato soon after was universally adopted as an edible. MM. Erckmann-Chatrian, in one of their patriotic stories, describe the effect produced by its advent in Lorraine. MM. De Lesseps, Pasteur, and Chevreul, the oldest member of the Institute, have promised to attend the potato festival at Montdidier." ^-^ ,/''^-^^^ ^-^^^ H' C AXTOINE PAIV^IKXTIKR 'Jv:^^ ^ K^ 869 " LE CORDON ROUGE." This is the title of the grand decoration granted by a society of the same name, and is considered " the highest gastronomic order in existence." The badge of the order consists of a beautifully modelled white-heart cherry, suspended by a cherry- red ribbon. The society is ruled by the " Supreme Don," and is supported by twelve " Senior Dons." The scope and aims of the society are most praiseworthy. Its endeavour is to advance not only high-class cookery in all its branches, but also to instruct the poorer members of the community how they can utilise available food substances to the best advantage. They hope, in time to come, to form and establish an "Academic de Cuisine ; " another scheme of theirs is to carry out the erection of model kitchens for instruction in practical cookery. The decoration of the society is open to : — 1. Ladies who manage their own establishments and are celebrated for the excellence of their entertainments. 2. Cooks of both sexes. 3. Chemists. 4. Persons who have invented any valuable article of food or drink. 5. Persons who supply the same. 6. Proprietors and managers of hotels and other catering establishments. This order is now governed by six Dons, members of the Universal Cookery and Food Association, who, under the guidance of the Supreme Don, watch over the interests of the society in order to further its objects. 870 PKACTICAL GASTRONOMY **LE COEDON BLEU." Le Cordon bleu, or the blue ribbon, denotes a culinary badge of honour, known in France as the highest gastronomic order of merit. It consists of a rosette made of dark blue ribbon, and is only bestowed on female cooks who are celebrated for the excellence of their cooking. Culinary etymologists have not yet settled their dispute as to the precise derivation of the term " Cordon bleu," as it is applied to skilful women cooks. The history of its adoption is still a mystery. Some will have it that the eminently epicurean monarch Louis XV. was so delighted with the dish served up at one of his repasts, under the auspices of Madame Du Barry, that he proposed to decorate the cook who had prepared the enjoyable feast with the blue ribbon of the order of Saint Esprit ; but it is to be feared that there is not any more authentic historical foundation for this statement than there is for the legend that Charles II. once knighted a joint of roast beef, which became then and thereafter •' Sir Loin." Others maintain that in the middle of the eighteenth century, when restaurants first became popular in Paris, these places of entertainment were frequented by attrac- tive damsels in Alsatian or in Burgundian costume, who wore " Cordons " or scarves of different coloured ribbons.