THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF GEORGE HOLL AGRIC. LIBRARY THE TABLE: HOW TO BUY FOOD, HOW TO COOK IT, AND HOW TO SERVE IT. THE TABLE: How TO BUY FOOD, How TO COOK IT, AND How TO SERVE IT BY ALESSANDRO FILIPPINI NEW YORK: CHARLES L. WEBSTER & COMPANY. 1889. Copyrighted, 1889, BY CHARLES L. WEBSTER & CO. (All Rights Reserved.) PRESS OF JENKINS & 224 Centre St., N.Y. CONTENTS. PAGE FAC-SIMILE LETTERS OF FILIPPINI AND DELMONICO vi-vii THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE 1-3 OUR MARKETS 4-7 VARIETIES OF FISH TO BE FOUND IN THE MARKETS DURING THE DIFFERENT MONTHS 8-14 VEGETABLES 1 5-1 7 WATER-MELONS AND MUSK-MELONS 18 How TO SET A TABLE 19, 20 How TO SERVE MEALS 20-23 MENUS FOR EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR 25-150 RECIPES ' 151-392 How TO CARVE. 393, 394 CELEBRATED MENUS, MANY OF WHICH WERE PREPARED BY MR. FILIPPINI 395-409 CURIOUS MENUS OF VARIOUS NATIONS 411-418 INDEX 419-432 <^ ^^^,^f^^^»~»^-^C>^>-z^^c^ S*- X tf ^4>-*' t THE TABLE. THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE. THE pleasures of the table are enjoyed by all who possess good health. Nothing is more fascinating than to be seated at a well-served, well- cooked breakfast or dinner; and yet, of the immense number that enjoy the good cheer and luxuries of the table, how few, very few, there are who stop to consider the vexatious trouble our host undergoes when arranging the daily bill of fare. "Variety is the spice of life," but nowhere is it more important, aye, actually necessary, than in the getting up of a palatable meal. This pertains not only to the dining-room of a hotel of the least pretensions or to the so-called " grand" restaurant, but particularly to the family table. The writer has known a gentle- man who presided over an immense restaurant, and daily provided the supplies therefor. He experienced no difficulty with any single part of his business, yet when he came to arrange the details of his own family's meals, and attempted to practically fulfill them, he was puzzled and annoyed beyond description. And, after all, there is no place in the civil- ized world where the market for the supply of food is so well provided as in New York, both as to variety and excellence, and even as to luxu- ries. Educated as thousands of persons have been, in the art of dining, by the famous Delmonico and his able lieutenants, New York, perhaps, contains a larger number of so-called high-livers than any other city. These " gourmands" (if you please), and their number is legion, have, with the aid of the excellent resources of the American market and the encouragement given to the culinary art of the period, brought the modern American table to virtual perfection. This is saying a great deal, inas- much as the famed restaurants of London, Paris, and Vienna have ever claimed a reputation and an ascendancy over others that seemed to form a part of history itself. But as times change, so we change with them. Westward the course of Empire sways, and the great glory of the past has departed from those THE TABLE.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF GEORGE HOLL AGRIC. LIBRARY HOW TO BUY FOOD, HOW TO COOK IT, AND HOW TO SERVE IT. How TO BUY FOOD, How TO COOK IT, AND How TO SERVE IT BY ALESSANDRO FILIPPINI NEW YORK: CHARLES L. WEBSTER & COMPANY. Copyrighted, 1889, BY CHARLES L. WEBSTER & CO. (All Rights Reserved.) PRESS OF JENKINS & 224 Centre St., N.Y. CONTENTS. PAGE FAC-SIMILE LETTERS OF FILIPPINI AND DELMONICO vi-vii THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE 1-3 VARIETIES OF FISH TO BE FOUND IN THE MARKETS DURING THE DIFFERENT MONTHS 8-14 WATER-MELONS AND MUSK-MELONS 18 How TO SET A TABLE 19, 20 MENUS FOR EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR 25-150 RECIPES ' 151-392 How TO CARVE. 393, 394 CELEBRATED MENUS, MANY OF WHICH WERE PREPARED BY MR. FILIPPINI 395-409 <^ ^^^,^f^^^»~»^-^C>^>-z^^c^ S*- X tf ^4>-*' t THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE. THE pleasures of the table are enjoyed by all who possess good health. Nothing is more fascinating than to be seated at a well-served, wellcooked breakfast or dinner; and yet, of the immense number that enjoy the good cheer and luxuries of the table, how few, very few, there are who stop to consider the vexatious trouble our host undergoes when arranging the daily bill of fare. "Variety is the spice of life," but nowhere is it more important, aye, actually necessary, than in the getting up of a palatable meal. This pertains not only to the dining-room of a hotel of the least pretensions or to the so-called " grand" restaurant, but particularly to the family table. The writer has known a gentleman who presided over an immense restaurant, and daily provided the supplies therefor. He experienced no difficulty with any single part of his business, yet when he came to arrange the details of his own family's meals, and attempted to practically fulfill them, he was puzzled and annoyed beyond description. And, after all, there is no place in the civilized world where the market for the supply of food is so well provided as in New York, both as to variety and excellence, and even as to luxuries. Educated as thousands of persons have been, in the art of dining, by the famous Delmonico and his able lieutenants, New York, perhaps, contains a larger number of so-called high-livers than any other city. These " gourmands" (if you please), and their number is legion, have, with the aid of the excellent resources of the American market and the encouragement given to the culinary art of the period, brought the modern American table to virtual perfection. This is saying a great deal, inasmuch as the famed restaurants of London, Paris, and Vienna have ever claimed a reputation and an ascendancy over others that seemed to form a part of history itself. But as times change, so we change with them. Westward the course of Empire sways, and the great glory of the past has departed from those

The table