Much of the excellence of baked beans depends upon the
bean-pot. It should be earthen, with a narrow mouth and
bulging sides. This shape is seldom found outside of
New England, and is said to have been modelled after the
Ass3a'ian pots. In spite of the slurs against "Boston
Baked Beans " it is often remarked that strangers enjo}^
them as much as natives ; and many a New England bean-
pot has been carried to the extreme South and West, that
people there might have "baked beans" in perfection.
They afford a nutritious and cheap food for people who
labor in the open air.
The Boston Cook Booh.
251
POULTRY AND GAME.
The flesh of poultiy and of game birds has less red
blood than the flesh of animals ; but as it abounds in phos-
phates, it is valuable food, particularly for invalids. The
flesh is drier, and not marbled with fat as in that of quad-
rupeds. All game has a strong odor and flavor, which is
by some mistaken for that of tainted meat. It should be
kept till tender, but no longer, unless frozen.
White-fleshed game should be cooked till well done ;
that with dark flesh may be served underdone. The
breast of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part.
' ' The wing of a walker and the leg of a flier are consid-
ered choice tidbits."
To Choose Poultry and Game. — The best chickens have
soft yellow feet, short thick legs, smooth moist skin, plump
breast ; and the cartilage on the end of the breast bone
is soft and pliable. This is sometimes broken in fowls to
deceive purchasers ; but the difference between a broken
bone, that slips when moved, and a soft yielding cartilage
may be very easily detected. Pin feathers always indicate
a young bird ; and long hairs, an older one. The bodies
of capons are very plump and fat, and larger in proportion
than those of fowls or chickens. The meat is of finer
flavor.
Old fowls have long thin necks and feet, and sharp
scales ; the flesh has a purplish tinge, and they usually have
a large amount of fat.
The best turkeys have smooth black legs, with soft,
loose spurs, full breasts, and white plump flesh.
Geese and ducks should be young, not more than a year
old, have white soft fat, yellow feet, and tender wings,
and be thick and hard on the breast. The windpipe
252
The Boston Cook Book,
should break when pressed with the thumb and finger.
Wild ducks have reddish feet. Tame ducks have thick
yellowish feet.
Young pigeons have light red flesh on the breast, and
full flesh-colored legs. Old pigeons are thin, and the breast
very dark. Wild pigeons are cheaper, but are dry and tough.
Stall-fed pigeons are the best. Squabs are young tame
pigeons, and always have pin feathers.
Grouse^ partridge^ and' quail should have full heavy
breasts, dark bills, and yellowish legs.
Young rabbits should have smooth, sharp claws, tender
ears and paws, and short necks.
Venison should be dark red, with some white fat. '
Page 149
Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Much of the excellence of baked beans depends upon the bean-pot. It should be earthen, with a narrow mouth and bulging sides. This shape is seldom found outside of New England, and is said to have been modelled after the Assyrian pots. In spite of the slurs against "Boston Baked Beans" it is often remarked that strangers enjoy them as much as natives ; and many a New England beanpot has been carried to the extreme South and West, that people there might have "baked beans" in perfection. They afford a nutritious and cheap food for people who labor in the open air.
The Boston Cook Booh.
POULTRY AND GAME.
The flesh of poultiy and of game birds has less red blood than the flesh of animals ; but as it abounds in phosphates, it is valuable food, particularly for invalids. The flesh is drier, and not marbled with fat as in that of quadrupeds. All game has a strong odor and flavor, which is by some mistaken for that of tainted meat. It should be kept till tender, but no longer, unless frozen.
White-fleshed game should be cooked till well done ; that with dark flesh may be served underdone. The breast of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part. ' ' The wing of a walker and the leg of a flier are considered choice tidbits."
To Choose Poultry and Game. — The best chickens have soft yellow feet, short thick legs, smooth moist skin, plump breast ; and the cartilage on the end of the breast bone is soft and pliable. This is sometimes broken in fowls to deceive purchasers ; but the difference between a broken bone, that slips when moved, and a soft yielding cartilage may be very easily detected. Pin feathers always indicate a young bird ; and long hairs, an older one. The bodies of capons are very plump and fat, and larger in proportion than those of fowls or chickens. The meat is of finer flavor.
Old fowls have long thin necks and feet, and sharp scales ; the flesh has a purplish tinge, and they usually have a large amount of fat.
The best turkeys have smooth black legs, with soft, loose spurs, full breasts, and white plump flesh.
Geese and ducks should be young, not more than a year old, have white soft fat, yellow feet, and tender wings, and be thick and hard on the breast. The windpipe
The Boston Cook Book,
should break when pressed with the thumb and finger. Wild ducks have reddish feet. Tame ducks have thick yellowish feet.
Young pigeons have light red flesh on the breast, and full flesh-colored legs. Old pigeons are thin, and the breast very dark. Wild pigeons are cheaper, but are dry and tough. Stall-fed pigeons are the best. Squabs are young tame pigeons, and always have pin feathers.
Grouse, partridge, and quail should have full heavy breasts, dark bills, and yellowish legs.
Young rabbits should have smooth, sharp claws, tender ears and paws, and short necks.
Venison should be dark red, with some white fat. '