FoodNetArchive

Mrs. Lincoln's Boston cook book

1884

Page 75

Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Soups are made from meat, fish, and vegetables, with water or milk ; seasoned or flavored with any or every kind of vegetable, sweet herbs, spices, currj^ powder, catchups, aromatic sauces, and with some kinds of fruit. They are served thin and clear, or thickened with vegeta- bles or cereals, and with or without meat. Soups are classified and named in various wa3's, accord- ing to material, color, quality, etc. Soups with stock have meat as the basis. Soups without stock are made of fish, vegetables, and milk. They are sometimes called soup maigre. Soups are named from flie principal ingredient, or an imitation of the same, as Potato, Onion, Beef, Mutton, Chicken, Gumbo, Macaroni, Okra, Ox-tail, Gib- let, Cock-a-leekie, Lobster, Mock Turtle, Mock Bisque, etc. ; or from the color, as Clear, or Amber, Brown, and White ; or from the consistency, as Thin soups and Purees ; or from the quality, as simple Broths, Bouillon, and Con- The Boston Cook Book. 121 somme ; or from the season of the year, as Julienne ; or from the people who nse them, as Scotch Broth, French Pot-au-feu, Indian Mullagatawnej^ ; or from the name of the makers, or in any wa}' one's fancy and invention may suggest. But from the scores, yes, hundreds of receipts in the cook-books, which seem so bewildering to the be- ginner, a few simple rules may be deduced which will make the process of soup-making intelligible ; and when once the foundation is laid, you may build and enlarge as 3^ou choose. Do not be discouraged because you have not all the dozen or more ingredients mentioned in most receipts. You will find many of them may be omitted with a per- fectly satisfactory result. Much depends upon what is omitted, though, as Potage a la Heine without chicken, or Julienne without vegetables, or Mullagatawney without curr}" powder, would disappoint those who think only of the name ; but, called by any other name, you would find them very good soups. Soups with Stock. Soups made with stock include all the varieties made from beef, veal, mutton, and poultr}'. Perhaps a glance at the meaning of the word stock will make clear its appli- cation to cookery. Stock is from the Anglo-Saxon stician^ to stick, and the idea of fixedness is expressed in all its forms. Stock in trade or business means the money or material laid b}^, or stored^ stocked^ jixed^ as a source of supply, ready for use at any time ; and in the business of soup-making, stock is the material stored or prepared in such a way that it may be kept or fixed for use in making different kinds of meat soup ; or, more definitely, it is a liquid containing the juices and soluble parts of meat, bone, and vegetables, which have been extracted by proper cooking. This liquid is more or less solid when cold, according to the gelatinous nature of the ingredients. It varies greatly in quality, owing to the manner in which it is prepared and the material used. 122 The Boston Cook Book.