755—EELS, considered as common, and principally used in the preparation of a pie held in high esteem by the frequenters of coffee-shops along the banks of the Thames. Small eels are also fried. But the many ways of dressing them which are common on the Continent are seldom practised in England. 756—PIKE, plentiful and of excellent quality ; only used in the preparation of forcemeat and quenelles; the directions for the latter will be given later. Albeit they are sometimes served crimped, or cooked whole in a court-bouzlion au bleu, accompanied by parsley or caper sauce, &c. Small pike are generally prepared “4 la Meunieére,” or fried. 757—CARP, in still less demand than the pike, and only prized for its milt. It must, however, be admitted that in England, more than anywhere else, I believe, this fish is too often spoilt by the taint of mud. 758—DORADO, served boiled with any of the English fish sauces; but, in my opinion, it is best grilled, after the manner generally adopted in the South of France. 759—STURGEON, very rare; it is braised, like veal. 760—FERA, very scarce on the market ; comes from the Swiss or Savoy lakes, and is only served a la Meunieére. 761—GUDGEON, very abundant in all rivers, but never eaten. 762—FROGS, the pet abomination of all classes of the popula- tion, with but few exceptions ; nevertheless “ Nymphes 4 |’Aurore,” the recipe of which I gave among the hors-d’ceuvres, are generally appreciated. 763—FRESH HERRINGS, abundant and of excellent quality ; seldom used in first-class cookery, except, perhaps, for their milt. Bloaters and kippered herrings are, with reason, preferred; of these I shall speak later. 764—LAMPREYS, chiefly used in preparing pies similar to those referred to in No. 755. 765—FRESH-WATER HERRINGS, like the Féra, come from Switzerland or Savoy, and are very scarce on the English market Prepared especially a la Meuniere, 262 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY 766--LOTE, very scarce on the English market ; only prized for its liver, 767—MOSTELE, only caught in the region of Monaco; cannot bear transport ; especially served 4 la Meuniére or a l’Anglaise. 768—MUSSELS, only used as garnish. 769—NONAT, replaced in England by whitebait, which it greatly resembles. 770—PERCH, very moderately appreciated; chiefly served fried, when small, and boiled with some fish sauce when large. 771—SKATE, generally served boiled, with caper sauce; occasionally with brown butter. The smaller specimens are better fried. Often offered for sale, crimped. 772—SARDINES, generally of inferior quality » used in the preparation of sprats. 773—STERLET, almost unknown in England. 774—TURTLE, with the exception of those firms which make this their speciality, is almost exclusively used in preparing Turtle Soup. The flippers are sometimes served braised au Madére. I do not think it at all necessary to lay any further stress upon the series of preparations bearing the names of Cro- quettes, Cromesquis, Cotelettes (cotelettes here only mean those prepared from cooked fish, and which are really but a form of croquettes), Coquilles, Bouchées, Palets, &c., which may be made from any kind of cooked fish. These prepara- tions are so well known that it would be almost superfluous to repeat their recipes. 775—DIVERS WAYS OF COOKING FISH The divers ways of cooking fish are all derived from one or another of the following methods :— (1) Boiling in salted water, which may be applied equally well to large pieces and slices of fish. (2) Frying, particularly suited to small specimens and thin slices of larger ones. (3) Cooking in butter, otherwise ‘a la Meuniére,’’ best suited to the same pieces as No. 2. (4) Poaching, with short moistening, especially suited to fiilets or small specimens. (5) Braising, used particularly for large pieces. (6) Grilling, for small specimens and collops. (7) Cooking au Gratin, same as grilling.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

755—EELS, considered as common, and principally used in the preparation of a pie held in high esteem by the frequenters of coffee-shops along the banks of the Thames. Small eels are also fried. But the many ways of dressing them which are common on the Continent are seldom practised in England. 756—PIKE, plentiful and of excellent quality ; only used in the preparation of forcemeat and quenelles; the directions for the latter will be given later. Albeit they are sometimes served crimped, or cooked whole in a court-bouillon au bleu, accompanied by parsley or caper sauce, &c. Small pike are generally prepared “4 la Meunieére,” or fried. 757—CARP, in still less demand than the pike, and only prized for its milt. It must, however, be admitted that in England, more than anywhere else, I believe, this fish is too often spoilt by the taint of mud. 758—DORADO, served boiled with any of the English fish sauces; but, in my opinion, it is best grilled, after the manner generally adopted in the South of France. 759—STURGEON, very rare; it is braised, like veal. 760—FERA, very scarce on the market ; comes from the Swiss or Savoy lakes, and is only served a la Meunieére. 761—GUDGEON, very abundant in all rivers, but never eaten. 762—FROGS, the pet abomination of all classes of the population, with but few exceptions ; nevertheless “ Nymphes 4 |’Aurore,” the recipe of which I gave among the hors-d’ceuvres, are generally appreciated. 763—FRESH HERRINGS, abundant and of excellent quality ; seldom used in first-class cookery, except, perhaps, for their milt. Bloaters and kippered herrings are, with reason, preferred; of these I shall speak later. 764—LAMPREYS, chiefly used in preparing pies similar to those referred to in No. 755. 765—FRESH-WATER HERRINGS, like the Féra, come from Switzerland or Savoy, and are very scarce on the English market Prepared especially a la Meuniere, 766—LOTE, very scarce on the English market; only prized for its liver, 767—MOSTELE, only caught in the region of Monaco; cannot bear transport ; especially served 4 la Meuniére or a l’Anglaise. 768—MUSSELS, only used as garnish. 769—NONAT, replaced in England by whitebait, which it greatly resembles. 770—PERCH, very moderately appreciated; chiefly served fried, when small, and boiled with some fish sauce when large. 771—SKATE, generally served boiled, with caper sauce; occasionally with brown butter. The smaller specimens are better fried. Often offered for sale, crimped. 772—SARDINES, generally of inferior quality » used in the preparation of sprats. 773—STERLET, almost unknown in England. 774—TURTLE, with the exception of those firms which make this their speciality, is almost exclusively used in preparing Turtle Soup. The flippers are sometimes served braised au Madére. I do not think it at all necessary to lay any further stress upon the series of preparations bearing the names of Croquettes, Cromesquis, Cotelettes (cotelettes here only mean those prepared from cooked fish, and which are really but a form of croquettes), Coquilles, Bouchées, Palets, &c., which may be made from any kind of cooked fish. These preparations are so well known that it would be almost superfluous to repeat their recipes. 775—DIVERS WAYS OF COOKING FISH The divers ways of cooking fish are all derived from one or another of the following methods :— (1) Boiling in salted water, which may be applied equally well to large pieces and slices of fish. (2) Frying, particularly suited to small specimens and thin slices of larger ones. (3) Cooking in butter, otherwise ‘a la Meuniére,’’ best suited to the same pieces as No. 2. (4) Poaching, with short moistening, especially suited to fiilets or small specimens. (5) Braising, used particularly for large pieces. (6) Grilling, for small specimens and collops. (7) Cooking au Gratin, same as grilling.

A guide to modern cookery