FoodNetArchive

A guide to modern cookery

1909

Page 227 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for ‘“pommes de terre Macaire.’? Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegarHachis de Bœuf Parmentier. Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells with the preparation. Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of it as the hash will absorb. Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin. 1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections. 392 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improve- ment on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet before- hand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe, and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving. Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish. By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’étre in this case. The Preparation of Tripe.—Under the head of ‘‘ beef tripe ”’ are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed. First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side. For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two Ibs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf. Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-ciderPreparation of Tripe. The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one. In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered. Treatment and Cooking-process.—Take a stewpan or brais- ing-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish. On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces. RELEVES AND ENTREES 393 Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening. Cover the whole with a kind of galette of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.