A guide to modern cookery

When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise. The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under ‘‘ The Braising of White Meats ’’ (No. 248). The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening. 1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a chartreuse of vegetables. Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat. Chartreuses of Vegetables.—Take two dome- or Charlotte- ~ moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally ; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draughtboard, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours. When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with ifs garnish. This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat. Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle. 1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing. Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care. Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant. In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle. This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish. Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice. 1184—-SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under ‘‘ Selle 4 la Metternich,”’ and cut the fillets in a similar manner. In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce. Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of ‘‘ Soufflé au Parmesan,’’ combined with one quart of truffle purée.