FoodNetArchive

A guide to modern cookery

1909

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Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
When serving, accompany each piece of pheasant with a slice of orange and a small slice of the coated croiton. GAME 585 1845—FAISAN SOUVAROFF Cook six fair-sized truffles for five minutes in a glassful of Madeira and an equal quantity of light meat glaze. Withdraw the truffles and put them in the terrine in which the pheasant will complete its cooking. Cut one-half Ib. of foie gras into large dice; stiffen these in the truffles’ cooking-liquor, and stuff the pheasant therewith. Truss the latter; wrap it in slices of bacon, and two-thirds poéle it. This done, put it into the terrine containing the truffles; add the poéling-liquor, a small glassful of Madeira, and the same quantity of game gravy; hermetically close the terrine, and continue cooking for about a quarter of an hour. Serve the preparation as it stands. 1846—SUPREMES, COTELETTES ET FILETS DE FAISAN Pheasant Suprémes, Cutlets and Fillets, allow of the same garnishes as those of fowl. But, whereas in the case of the latter, they are raised raw, and then poached, my advice in regard to pheasant is, that it should be previously roasted or poéled (keeping it just underdone) and that the suprémes be only raised at the last moment. By this means, a much better result is obtained than by the poaching of raw fillets; which, once cooked, are gene- rally dry if they have to wait but a few seconds. I also advise, when the garnish consists only of foie-gras collops and truffles (as in the case of the Rossini garnish), the sending separately of a small timbale of noodles with cream. 1847—SALMIS DE FAISAN Salmis is perhaps the most delicate and most perfect of the game preparations bequeathed to us by old-fashioned cookery. If it be less highly esteemed nowadays, it is owing to the fact that this recipe has been literally spoiled by the haphazard fashion in which it has been applied right and left to game already cooked, and cooked again for the purpose. But the Salmis given above may always be included in any menu, however sumptuous. It is applied more particularly to game of the 1st and 2nd classes, which should be somewhat high when treated. The recipe I give may be applied to all the birds in the two classes referred to. Roast the pheasant, keeping it moderately underdone. Quickly cut it into eight pieces, thus: two legs, two wings (separated from the pinions), and the breast cut into four length- 586 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY wise. Skin the pieces; trim them neatly, and keep them at a temperate heat in a covered vegetable-pan, with a few drops of burnt brandy and a little clear melted meat glaze. Pound the carcass and the trimmings, and add to them half a bottleful of red wine (almost entirely reduced), three chopped shallots and a few mignonette pepper. Add one-quarter pint of good game Espagnole sauce; cook for ten minutes; rub through a sieve, pressing well the while, and then strain through a strainer. Reduce this sauce to about one-third, and despumate it; strain it once more through a close strainer; add a small quan- tity of butter, and pour it over the pieces of pheasant, to which add a fine, sliced truffle and six grooved mushroom-headsSalmis de Faisan. I advise the discarding of the old method of dishing upon a cushion of bread fried in butter, as also of the triangular crotitons fried in butter and coated with gratin forcemeat, which usually accompanied the Salmis. A speedy preparation and a simple method of dishing, which facilitate the service and allow of the Salmis being eaten hot, are the only necessary conditions. Moreover, the goodness of the preparation is such as to be independent of a fantastic method of dishing. 1848—SAUTE DE FAISAN