FoodNetArchive

A guide to modern cookery

1909

Page 34 · 3 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Put in a basin the yolks of six raw eggs, after having removed the cores. Season them with one-half oz. of table- salt and a little cayenne pepper. Gradually pour one-fifth pint of vinegar on the yolks while whisking them briskly. When the vinegar is absorbed add one quart of oil, letting the latter trickle down in a thread, constantly stirring the sauce meanwhile. The sauce is finished by the addition of the juice of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of boiling water—the purpose of the latter being to ensure the coherence of the sauce and to prevent its turning. Mayonnaise prepared in this way is rather liquid, but it need only be left to rest a few hours in order to thicken con- siderably. Unless it be exposed to too low a temperature, the Mayonnaise, prepared as above, never turns, and may be kept for several days without the fear of anything happening to it. Merely cover it to keep the dust away. Remarks.—In the matter of that sauce there exist endless prejudices, which I must attempt to refute :— 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the oil has been: added too rapidly at first, before the addition of the vinegar, and that its assimilation by the yolks has not operated normally. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over ice or in acold room. Cold is rather deleterious to the Mayonnaise, and is invariably the cause of this sauce turn- ing in winter. In the cold season the oil should be slightly E 50 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY warmed, or, at least, kept at the temperature of the kitchen, though it is best to make it in a moderately warm place. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning inter- feres with the making of the sauce, for salt, in solution, rather provokes the cohering force of the yolks. Causes of the Disintegration of the Mayonnaise :— 1. The too rapid addition of the oil at the start. 2. The use of congealed, or too cold, an oil. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the assimilating power of an egg being limited to two and one-half oz. of oil (if the sauce be made some time in advance), and three oz. if it is to be used immediately. Means of Bringing Turned Mayonnaise Back to its Normal State.—Put the yolk of an egg into a basin with a few drops of vinegar, and mix the turned Mayonnaise in it, little by little. If it be a matter of only a small quantity of Mayonnaise, one-half a coffeespoonful of mustard can take the place of the egg-yolk. Finally, with regard to acid seasoning, a whiter sauce is obtained by the use of lemon juice instead of vinegar. 127—CLEARED MAYONNAISE SAUCE Take the necessary quantity of Mayonnaise and gradually add to it, per one and one-half pints of the sauce, one-half pint of cold and rather firm melting aspic jellyCleared Mayonnaise Sauce—Lenten or ordinary, according to the nature of the products for which the sauce is intended. Remarks.—lIt is this very Mayonnaise, formerly used almost exclusively for coating entrées and cold relevées of fish, filleted fish, escalopes of common and spiny-lobster, &c., which I have allowed the Lenten Chaud-froid (see remarks No. 76) to supersede. 128—WHISKED MAYONNAISE Put into a copper basin or other bowl three-quarters pint of melted jelly, two-thirds pint of Mayonnaise, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and as much rasped or finely-chopped horse-radishWhisked Mayonnaise. Mix up the whole, place the utensil on ice, and whisk gently until the contents get very frothy. Stop whisking as soon as the sauce begins to solidify, for it must remain almost fluid so as to enable it to mix with the products for which it is intended. This sauce is used principally for vegetable salads. COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 51 129—RAVIGOTE SAUCE, OR VINAIGRETTE Ravigote Sauce, or Vinaigrette