These enormous pieces are scarcely trimmed; the excess of flank alone is suppressed; but the fillet must remain covered by a considerable thickness of fat, which protects it while roasting. Without this precautionary measure, the under-cut would be cooked long before the upper-fillet, and would dry up. The fire should be concentrated, regular and not too fierce for this joint. The flat bones of the vertebrze must be broken at their base, but not detached. 1950—FILLET OF BEEF Fillet of beef intended for roasting should be carefully cleared of its two sinewy envelopes. But, since this trimming tends to let it dry while cooking, were the meat left as it stands, it is customary to lard it with strips of fresh fat bacon, which protect it; or it may be wrapped in slices of bacon. In certain -cir- cumstances, it is covered on top and beneath with slices of beef fat, flattened to the thickness of a rasher of bacon by means of a beater, and tied on with string. Fillet of beef should be cooked with a somewhat fierce fire, and, in England, it is usually kept underdone towards the centre. N.B.—Large roast joints of beef are always accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, grated Horse-radish or Horse-radish sauce (No. 119 or 138). 1951—ROTIS DE VEAU (Veal Roasts) In my opinion, the spit does not suit veal, whatever be the quality of the latter. Poéling (No. 250) is preferable and suits it better. The quality of meat can but be enhanced under the treat- ment I suggest, more particularly as the poéling-liquor con- stitutes a much richer gravy than that which generally accom- panies veal roasted on the spit. In English cookery roast veal is always accompanied by boiled ham or breast of bacon. Veal Stuffing (No. 1945) poached in steam in a special mould, and cut into slices, is sent at the same time. Roast joints of veal are generally the Loin, the best end, the Neck or the Fillet. Sometimes, too, but more rarely, the Cushion is roasted. 1952—MUTTON AND LAMB ROASTS Mutton and Lamb are the best possible meats to roast, and, as far as they are concerned, the culinary treatment might be limited to roasting. 608 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY True, good results are obtained from poaching mutton and poéling home-lamb; but it is advisable only to have recourse to these methods when a menu requires varying. The Mutton joints roasted are the Leg, the Double or Pair of Hind-legs, the Baron or (Hindquarters), the Saddle and the Neck. The Shoulder also makes an excellent roast, but it may only appear on more or less unimportant menus. Roast joints of mutton and lamb are always accompanied by Mint Sauce (No. 136). 1953 —PORK ROASTS Pork roasts may only appear on very ordinary menus, and really belong to domestic cookery. The pork joints for roasting are the Legs, the Fillets, and the Neck. The joints selected should be those derived from very young animals, and the rind should be left upon them, and cut deeply in criss-cross lines, so as to form a lozenge pattern. Pork should always be roasted before a fierce fire, and it is accompanied by its gravy and Sage and Onions (No. 1944) or Apple sauce (No. 112). Sometimes Apple sauce is replaced by Cranberry sauce (No. 115); while Roberts sauce Escoffier is also admirably suited to these roasts. 1954—VENISON ROASTS I have already pointed out that Roebuck is not very much | eaten in England, and that this excellent ground game must be used without having been marinaded. Every piece of roe- buck must be trimmed and cleared of tendons, larded with larding bacon, or, at least, carefully wrapped in the latter; and roasted before a fierce fire and kept underdone towards the centre. The joints of roebuck most commonly roasted are the Legs and the Saddle.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

These enormous pieces are scarcely trimmed; the excess of flank alone is suppressed; but the fillet must remain covered by a considerable thickness of fat, which protects it while roasting. Without this precautionary measure, the under-cut would be cooked long before the upper-fillet, and would dry up. The fire should be concentrated, regular and not too fierce for this joint. The flat bones of the vertebrae must be broken at their base, but not detached. 1950—FILLET OF BEEF Fillet of beef intended for roasting should be carefully cleared of its two sinewy envelopes. But, since this trimming tends to let it dry while cooking, were the meat left as it stands, it is customary to lard it with strips of fresh fat bacon, which protect it; or it may be wrapped in slices of bacon. In certain -circumstances, it is covered on top and beneath with slices of beef fat, flattened to the thickness of a rasher of bacon by means of a beater, and tied on with string. Fillet of beef should be cooked with a somewhat fierce fire, and, in England, it is usually kept underdone towards the centre. N.B.—Large roast joints of beef are always accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, grated Horse-radish or Horse-radish sauce (No. 119 or 138). 1951—ROTIS DE VEAU (Veal Roasts) In my opinion, the spit does not suit veal, whatever be the quality of the latter. Poéling (No. 250) is preferable and suits it better. The quality of meat can but be enhanced under the treatment I suggest, more particularly as the poéling-liquor constitutes a much richer gravy than that which generally accompanies veal roasted on the spit. In English cookery roast veal is always accompanied by boiled ham or breast of bacon. Veal Stuffing (No. 1945) poached in steam in a special mould, and cut into slices, is sent at the same time. Roast joints of veal are generally the Loin, the best end, the Neck or the Fillet. Sometimes, too, but more rarely, the Cushion is roasted. 1952—MUTTON AND LAMB ROASTS Mutton and Lamb are the best possible meats to roast, and, as far as they are concerned, the culinary treatment might be limited to roasting. True, good results are obtained from poaching mutton and poéling home-lamb; but it is advisable only to have recourse to these methods when a menu requires varying. The Mutton joints roasted are the Leg, the Double or Pair of Hind-legs, the Baron or (Hindquarters), the Saddle and the Neck. The Shoulder also makes an excellent roast, but it may only appear on more or less unimportant menus. Roast joints of mutton and lamb are always accompanied by Mint Sauce (No. 136). 1953 —PORK ROASTS Pork roasts may only appear on very ordinary menus, and really belong to domestic cookery. The pork joints for roasting are the Legs, the Fillets, and the Neck. The joints selected should be those derived from very young animals, and the rind should be left upon them, and cut deeply in criss-cross lines, so as to form a lozenge pattern. Pork should always be roasted before a fierce fire, and it is accompanied by its gravy and Sage and Onions (No. 1944) or Apple sauce (No. 112). Sometimes Apple sauce is replaced by Cranberry sauce (No. 115); while Roberts sauce Escoffier is also admirably suited to these roasts. 1954—VENISON ROASTS I have already pointed out that Roebuck is not very much | eaten in England, and that this excellent ground game must be used without having been marinaded. Every piece of roebuck must be trimmed and cleared of tendons, larded with larding bacon, or, at least, carefully wrapped in the latter; and roasted before a fierce fire and kept underdone towards the centre. The joints of roebuck most commonly roasted are the Legs and the Saddle.

A guide to modern cookery