After having washed and well wiped them, in order to re- move the white powder resulting from the little scales with which they are covered, they should be neatly trimmed to the shape of extended oblongs. Then detach the fillets from the bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet lengthwise into three or four smaller fillets, put the latter into a small narrow dish or a little bowl, and cover them with oil✪ Anchovies (Fillets of). The fillets may also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings. 174—ANGLAISE (FOR EGG-AND-BREAD-CRUMBING) It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which are to be panés a l’anglaise, or as many of the recipes direct : treated a l’anglaise. ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 72 It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one dessertspoonful of oil per couple of eggs✪ Anglaise (for Egg-and-Bread-Crumbling). Its Uses.—The solids to be panés a l’anglaise are dipped into the preparation described above, taking care that the latter coats them thoroughly; whereupon, according to the require- ments, they are rolled either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings. From this combination of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings there results a kind of coat which, at the moment of contact with the hot fat, is immediately converted into a resisting crust. In croquettes this crust checks the escape, into the fat, of the sub- stances it encloses, and this is more especially the case when the croquettes contain some reduced sauce, or are composed of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely retained. A solid prepared a l’anglaise and cooked in fat should always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to ensure the instantaneous solidification of the egg and bread- crumbs. N.B.—Objects to be treated a l’anglaise are generally rolled in flour before being immersed in the anglaise, for the flour helps the foregoing to adhere to the object. The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which is indispensable. 174a—AROMATICS Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their combination with the condiments constitutes, as Grinod de la Reyniére said, ‘“‘the hidden soul of cooking.’’ Their real object, in fact, is to throw the savour of dishes into relief, to intensify that savour, and to give each culinary preparation its particular stamp. They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom ; but, while some are used dry, others are used fresh. The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen stock; they are: sage, basil, rosemary, sweet marjoram, thyme, and bay. Also to be included in the permanent stock are: cinnamon, ginger, juniper-berries, nutmeg, cloves, mace, and vanilla. The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh, such as: parsley, chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, and common savory; while, under this head, there may also be included: bits of common- and Seville-orange rind and gests of lemon rind. 174b—SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS Seasonings are divided into several classes, which com. prise :— 72 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY 1. Saline seasonings.—Salt, spiced salt, saltpetre. 2. Acid seasonings.—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with tarragon; verjuice, lemon juice, and common- or Seville- orange juices. 3. Hot seasonings.—Peppercorns, ground or concassed pepper, or mignonette; paprika, curry, cayenne, and com- pound spices. 4. Saccharine seasonings.—Sugar and honey. Condiments are likewise subdivided, the three classes being :— (1) The pungents.—Onions, shallots, garlic, chives, and horseradish. 2. Hot condiments.—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such as Worcester, Harvey, Ketchup, Escoffier’s sauces, &c.; the wines used in reductions and braisings; the finishing elements of sauces and soups. 3. Fatty substances.—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases (edible oils and cocoanut butter).

AI-modernized reading of the original text

After having washed and well wiped them, in order to remove the white powder resulting from the little scales with which they are covered, they should be neatly trimmed to the shape of extended oblongs. Then detach the fillets from the bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet lengthwise into three or four smaller fillets, put the latter into a small narrow dish or a little bowl, and cover them with oil. The fillets may also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings. 174—ANGLAISE (FOR EGG-AND-BREAD-CRUMBING) It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which are to be panés a l’anglaise, or as many of the recipes direct : treated a l’anglaise. It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one dessertspoonful of oil per couple of eggs. Its Uses.—The solids to be panés a l’anglaise are dipped into the preparation described above, taking care that the latter coats them thoroughly; whereupon, according to the requirements, they are rolled either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings. From this combination of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings there results a kind of coat which, at the moment of contact with the hot fat, is immediately converted into a resisting crust. In croquettes this crust checks the escape, into the fat, of the substances it encloses, and this is more especially the case when the croquettes contain some reduced sauce, or are composed of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely retained. A solid prepared a l’anglaise and cooked in fat should always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to ensure the instantaneous solidification of the egg and breadcrumbs. N.B.—Objects to be treated a l’anglaise are generally rolled in flour before being immersed in the anglaise, for the flour helps the foregoing to adhere to the object. The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which is indispensable. 174a—AROMATICS Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their combination with the condiments constitutes, as Grinod de la Reyniére said, ‘“‘the hidden soul of cooking.’’ Their real object, in fact, is to throw the savour of dishes into relief, to intensify that savour, and to give each culinary preparation its particular stamp. They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom ; but, while some are used dry, others are used fresh. The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen stock; they are: sage, basil, rosemary, sweet marjoram, thyme, and bay. Also to be included in the permanent stock are: cinnamon, ginger, juniper-berries, nutmeg, cloves, mace, and vanilla. The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh, such as: parsley, chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, and common savory; while, under this head, there may also be included: bits of common- and Seville-orange rind and zests of lemon rind. 174b—SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS Seasonings are divided into several classes, which com. prise :— 1. Saline seasonings.—Salt, spiced salt, saltpetre. 2. Acid seasonings.—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with tarragon; verjuice, lemon juice, and common- or Sevilleorange juices. 3. Hot seasonings.—Peppercorns, ground or concassed pepper, or mignonette; paprika, curry, cayenne, and compound spices. 4. Saccharine seasonings.—Sugar and honey. Condiments are likewise subdivided, the three classes being :— (1) The pungents.—Onions, shallots, garlic, chives, and horseradish. 2. Hot condiments.—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such as Worcester, Harvey, Ketchup, Escoffier’s sauces, &c.; the wines used in reductions and braisings; the finishing elements of sauces and soups. 3. Fatty substances.—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases (edible oils and cocoanut butter).

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Anchovies (Fillets of)Anglaise (for Egg-and-Bread-Crumbling)

A guide to modern cookery