FoodNetArchive

A guide to modern cookery

1909

Page 80 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Also considered as light gratins are those which serve as the complement of stuffed vegetables such as tomatoes, mush- rooms, egg-plant, and cucumber. With these the gratin is composed of raspings sprinkled with butter or oil, and it is placed in a more or less fierce heat according to whether the vegetables have already been cooked or partially cooked, or are quite raw. 272—GLAZINGS These are of two kinds—they either consist of a heavily buttered sauce, or they form from a sprinkling of cheese upon the sauce with which the object to be glazed is covered. In the first case, after having poured sauce over the object to be treated, place the dish on another dish containing a little water. This is to prevent the sauce decomposing and boiling. The greater the quantity of butter used, the more intense will be the heat required, in order that a slight golden film may form almost instantaneously. In the second case, the sauce used is always a Mornay (No. 91). Cover the object under treatment with the sauce, be- sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and place in fairly intense heat, so that a slight golden crust may form almost immediately, this crust being the result of the combined cheese and butter. 273—BLANCHINGS The essentially unsuitable term blanchings is applied in the culinary technology of France to three classes of operations which entirely differ one from the other in the end they have in view. 1. The blanching of meats. 2. The blanching, or, better, the parboiling of certain vegetables. , 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality amounts to a process of cooking. The blanching of meats obtains mostly in the case of calf’s head and foot and the sweet-bread of veal, sheep’s and lambs’ ° K 130 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY trotters, and lamb’s sweet-bread. These meats are first set to soak in cold, running water until they have quite got rid of the blood with which they are naturally saturated. They are then placed on the fire in a saucepan containing enough cold water to abundantly cover them, and the water is gradually brought to the boil. For calf’s head or feet, boiling may last for fifteen or twenty minutes; veal sweet-bread must not boil for more than ten or twelve minutes; while lamb sweet-bread is withdrawn the moment the boil is reached. As soon as blanched, the meats are cooled in plenty of fresh water before undergoing their final treatment. The blanching of cocks’ combs is exceptional in this, namely, that after the combs have been cleansed of blood—that | is to say, soaked in cold water, they are placed on the fire in cold water, the temperature of which must be carefully kept below 113° F. When this degree is approached, take the saucepan off the fire and rub each conib with a cloth, dusted | with table-saltBlanched Meats, in order to remove the skins; then cool the | combs with fresh water before cooking them. Many people use the blanching process with meats intended for ‘‘ blanquette’’ or ‘‘fricassée.’’ I regard this procedure as | quite erroneous, as also the preliminary soaking in cold water. If the meats or pieces of poultry intended for the above- mentioned preparations be of a good quality (and no others should be used), they need only be set to cook in cold water, | or cold stock, and gradually brought to the boil, being stirred repeatedly the while. The scum formed should be carefuliy removed, and, in this way, perfectly white meats and stock, with all their savour, are obtained. H