FoodNetArchive

Cassell's dictionary of cookery

1892

Page 10

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
In fact, we may faii-ly compare a well-cooked joint to an ordinary well-boiled egg. It is generally known that an egg requires about three minutes to three minutes and a half to boil. When it is cracked, if done properly, the inside will be liquid, but surrounded by a coagulated film of albumen. This is just the same with a properly boiled leg of mutton ; the outside thin rim is hard, but the inside tender. Just as in. the case of the egg, had it been allowed to boil for twenty minutes instead of three, the whole would have become solid, the whole egg consisting chiefly of albumen ; so, too, with the leg of mutton, if it had been exjjosed to a boiling tem- perature the whole time, the albumen in the whole of the joint v.^ould not merely have coagulated but would have hardened, thereby rendering the joint tough. As we have before pointed out, when once the principles of cooking are under- stood, one recipe will often lead to another. Cooking is an art — a high art — and cannot be learnt in a day, nor can it be learnt by simply reading a book on the subject. The study of cookery must be combined with practice. Now there is perhaps no part of this practice so important as the knowledge of varjjing recipes as occasion may require. It will be evident that no work on cooking, however large or however good, can adapt its recipes to meet the requirements of every family in quantity as well as quality. We have endeavoured, therefore, when it is possible, to give in ovir pi^esent work different methods of preparing the various dishes, &c. ; but, of course, it would be impossible to give recipes, one adapted to a family of two, another for one of six, and another of twelve persons. We will illustrate what we mean by referring to an excellent recipe for preparing bechamel sauce on page 48. We have here recommended the cook to boil down an old fowl, three pounds of knuckle of veal, and three pounds of very lean ham. This is, of course, for the preparation of a large quantity. Now, we will suppose the case of a family consisting of but two persons, and say two servants — a by no means uncommon occun-ence. Of course, to purchase such quantities for two would be extravagant to a degi-ee ; however, are we, say our newly-married couple, to be debarred from the occasional taste of sauce bechamel? By no means. If the cook is in possession of some little education and common sense, she would have no diffi- culty whatever in grasping the 2J'>'inci2)le of the recipe to which we have referred on CASSELL S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. page 48. We will suppose the house to possess such very ordinary dishes as the remains of a cold fowl and a piece of boiled bacon.